Type: Sport
FA: Rex Mammel
Page Views: 390 total · 2/month
Shared By: Rex Mammel on Apr 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a clean line up impressive and intimidating buttress between Jelly Bellies and Dough Boys . It pulls several small roofs on thin holds. It is strenuous for the grade.

Protection

Bolts to cold shuts with a runout on hard moves to the anchor, but the fall is clean.

Photos

Rex Mammel
  5.11c
Rex Mammel  
  5.11c
Added one bolt on the trip to the anchors. Route is more enjoyable for the typical shelf climber without the runnout. May 12, 2002
Rex Mammel
  5.11c
Rex Mammel  
  5.11c
This route is 10 bolts long including sharing 2 bolts with the route which veers off right. May 23, 2002
Jesse Ryan
  5.11d
Jesse Ryan  
  5.11d
11d for the OS - once the line is known maybe 11c for the RP. Good line. Jun 22, 2004
phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
phil wortmann   Colorado Springs, Co.
This route is nowhere near three stars. Contrived line to CHIPPED holds. Compared to partners or apple, this is a bomb. Sorry man, but I couldn't recommend this climb to anyone. Oct 16, 2011
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
 
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
 
This climb was thought provoking, long (for Shelf) and super fun. Fairly committing moves on small holds and over two roofs. The exposure on the arĂȘte is well worth it. Highly recommended. Oct 21, 2012
Paul Hassett
Aurora CO
 
Paul Hassett   Aurora CO
 
After reading comments posted about this route, thought I would add another. I found this route really great for the grade and wished I had not waited so long to do it.

It has a bit of everything - technical slab start, finger locks, compression moves, pockets, and roof. It keeps you on your toes and is a great onsight challenge. If there is chipping, as claimed by one comment, I certainly did not see it, but to each their own.

Only drawback is the belay, which seems to be best done from the steps under the climb, as opposed to the continuously eroding slope underneath it. Apr 10, 2016