Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson
Page Views: 2,257 total · 11/month
Shared By: crossad on Jun 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


131 Opinions

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Description

This is a decent line up a face just left of an arete. The climb is located about 1/4 of the way down the wall from the mouth of the "canyon". Check the guidebook for the details.

Climb about 15 feet of 5.9 to the first bolt. The second bolt is only a few feet higher and protects the first challenge, a crimpy face section to a large ledge. Upon reaching the ledge, clip the 3rd bolt. Note: a flake that provides bomber hands about 5 feet left of the 3rd bolt was moving. Please be careful as it is directly above your belay! Continue over what I felt was the crux to the 4th bolt and another ledge. Move up through some fun climbing to the 5th bolt until you gain yet another small ledge. From here, you can climb the short distance to solid anchors using two cracks, a larger and a smaller.

There seems to be ledges every 10 feet or so that provide easy rests. The route is just to the left of the colored portion of the photo.

Protection

5 bolts.

Photos

Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
A nice cruise- Not too hard but lot's of fun. Crimpy in some areas, juggy in others. Mar 17, 2003
I was just wondering why the tree at the base needed cutting down? Was this simply to provide the people who climb in groups of 10 or so room to camp under this climb all day or because some people got their rope caught on it. If it's the latter, the bad news is that the flake above still snags them anyway.

I really hope there was a very good reason for it because I really liked that tree. It had a lot of character! No that is not sarcasm. Aug 23, 2003
Carrie  
FA: Carrie & Bob. Oct 3, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The landmark for the start of the climb is a sawed-off dead tree about 5 feet off the ground. It's partially visible in the photo below.

Some slippery footholds and well-spaced bolts make this a sporty line. Oct 15, 2003
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I agree with Ron: if you are new to 10 leading, this will feel exciting. Apr 25, 2007
coldfish
Laramie, Wyoming
coldfish   Laramie, Wyoming
The holds are good, pretty juggy but the best holds got a little questionable the higher you got on the route. I was worried the big holds might be breaking off soon, but maybe I'm just paranoid. Apr 17, 2008
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
Would get an extra star from me if I wasn't worried about some questionable holds on the 2nd half of the route. I agree that it would be an "exciting" lead for someone at the grade. Nov 25, 2008
L G
Boulder, CO
 
L G   Boulder, CO
 
Long solo to first bolt. Then the other bolts felt very run out. Overall, it felt poorly protected with potential to fall onto ledges. Oct 26, 2009
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Over the years this climb has gotten very polished. It's a real pile now with the exception of the very top, which remains nice. Given the absolutely horrid bolting, it's best to just avoid it. Oct 2, 2011
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The first bolt is probably a touch more than 15'. The holds near this bolt are quite polished. Upper portion of the route is pretty fun. Probably a bad lead for the 10- leader. May 7, 2013
Better bolting would have made this route more enjoyable - not the number of bolts but the bolt placements. A fall at the first bolt (30+ ft off the ground) would be bad. Make sure that you are doing. The sloper near the bolt is bad. Most people climb to the right of the bolt. Mar 16, 2015
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
While the first bolt is high, it is NOT 30+ feet off the ground. Mar 17, 2015