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Routes in Contest Wall

9 to 5 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Agent Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apple Bites Back, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Apple Jam T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aretissima S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Armistice (AKA The Armisist) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Awakenings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Froggy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bitten by a Manpris S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cactus Carrie S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cactus Drop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cattle Prod S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cave Troll S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cumulocrimpus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curious George S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Crack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dough Boys S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dr. Howard's Digital Exam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dune, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Enterprise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Farts of Horsemen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fossil Fueled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotham City S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Cru S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hide n' Seek S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Pockets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Holy Sheath S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Takes a Village S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It's Miller Time S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jelly Bellies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump for Cholla T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knot Head S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lime and Punishment S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limestone Lady S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limestone Politician S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Liquid Pork S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
List, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Mecca S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Little Red Badge of Courage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Metropolis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Monster Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Route (a.k.a. Black Rib) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Place For a Lady S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Place for a Gentleman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
No Tomorrow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Not So Killer Bees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Opportunist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pesko Sour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phase Dance S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pocket Laureate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Porkus Non Grata S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Primal Urge S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Regroovable S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Renaissance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
River of Rabbits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scary Carrie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shithouse Traverse V0- 4-
Short Slaughter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silverado S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Single Gun Theory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slamdance Cosmopolis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slipper Queen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spice is Nice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spike aka BR 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spinney Dan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sprayburn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strangeways T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suburbia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taos Hum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Time Square S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tinsel Town aka BR 2? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Fun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tortuga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trick-or-Treat TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Truancy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Turbo Road S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Vail Athletic Club S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wee Man S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Snooze, You Lose S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Zia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson
Page Views: 2,128 total, 11/month
Shared By: crossad on Jun 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a decent line up a face just left of an arete. The climb is located about 1/4 of the way down the wall from the mouth of the "canyon". Check the guidebook for the details.

Climb about 15 feet of 5.9 to the first bolt. The second bolt is only a few feet higher and protects the first challenge, a crimpy face section to a large ledge. Upon reaching the ledge, clip the 3rd bolt. Note: a flake that provides bomber hands about 5 feet left of the 3rd bolt was moving. Please be careful as it is directly above your belay! Continue over what I felt was the crux to the 4th bolt and another ledge. Move up through some fun climbing to the 5th bolt until you gain yet another small ledge. From here, you can climb the short distance to solid anchors using two cracks, a larger and a smaller.

There seems to be ledges every 10 feet or so that provide easy rests. The route is just to the left of the colored portion of the photo.

Protection

5 bolts.

Photos

Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
While the first bolt is high, it is NOT 30+ feet off the ground. Mar 17, 2015
JulianG  
Better bolting would have made this route more enjoyable - not the number of bolts but the bolt placements. A fall at the first bolt (30+ ft off the ground) would be bad. Make sure that you are doing. The sloper near the bolt is bad. Most people climb to the right of the bolt. Mar 16, 2015
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The first bolt is probably a touch more than 15'. The holds near this bolt are quite polished. Upper portion of the route is pretty fun. Probably a bad lead for the 10- leader. May 7, 2013
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Over the years this climb has gotten very polished. It's a real pile now with the exception of the very top, which remains nice. Given the absolutely horrid bolting, it's best to just avoid it. Oct 2, 2011
L G
Boulder, CO
 
L G   Boulder, CO
 
Long solo to first bolt. Then the other bolts felt very run out. Overall, it felt poorly protected with potential to fall onto ledges. Oct 26, 2009
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
Would get an extra star from me if I wasn't worried about some questionable holds on the 2nd half of the route. I agree that it would be an "exciting" lead for someone at the grade. Nov 25, 2008
coldfish
Laramie, Wyoming
coldfish   Laramie, Wyoming
The holds are good, pretty juggy but the best holds got a little questionable the higher you got on the route. I was worried the big holds might be breaking off soon, but maybe I'm just paranoid. Apr 17, 2008
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I agree with Ron: if you are new to 10 leading, this will feel exciting. Apr 25, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The landmark for the start of the climb is a sawed-off dead tree about 5 feet off the ground. It's partially visible in the photo below.

Some slippery footholds and well-spaced bolts make this a sporty line. Oct 15, 2003
Carrie  
FA: Carrie & Bob. Oct 3, 2003
I was just wondering why the tree at the base needed cutting down? Was this simply to provide the people who climb in groups of 10 or so room to camp under this climb all day or because some people got their rope caught on it. If it's the latter, the bad news is that the flake above still snags them anyway.

I really hope there was a very good reason for it because I really liked that tree. It had a lot of character! No that is not sarcasm. Aug 23, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
A nice cruise- Not too hard but lot's of fun. Crimpy in some areas, juggy in others. Mar 17, 2003