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Routes in Contest Wall

9 to 5 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Agent Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apple Bites Back, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Apple Jam T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aretissima S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Armistice (AKA The Armisist) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Awakenings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Froggy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bitten by a Manpris S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cactus Carrie S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cactus Drop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cattle Prod S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cave Troll S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cumulocrimpus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curious George S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Crack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dough Boys S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dr. Howard's Digital Exam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dune, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Enterprise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Farts of Horsemen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fossil Fueled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotham City S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Cru S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hide n' Seek S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Pockets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Holy Sheath S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Takes a Village S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It's Miller Time S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jelly Bellies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump for Cholla T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knot Head S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lime and Punishment S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limestone Lady S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limestone Politician S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Liquid Pork S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
List, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Mecca S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Little Red Badge of Courage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Metropolis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Monster Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Route (a.k.a. Black Rib) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Place For a Lady S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Place for a Gentleman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
No Tomorrow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Not So Killer Bees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Opportunist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pesko Sour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phase Dance S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pocket Laureate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Porkus Non Grata S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Primal Urge S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Regroovable S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Renaissance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
River of Rabbits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scary Carrie S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shithouse Traverse V0- 4-
Short Slaughter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silverado S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Single Gun Theory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slamdance Cosmopolis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slipper Queen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spice is Nice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spike aka BR 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spinney Dan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sprayburn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strangeways T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suburbia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taos Hum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Time Square S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tinsel Town aka BR 2? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Fun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tortuga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trick-or-Treat TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Truancy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Turbo Road S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Vail Athletic Club S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wee Man S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Snooze, You Lose S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Zia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,600 total, 28/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Spinney Dan is a really fun jug haul, just climb carefully through on easy ground to the very high first bolt. It is located on Contest Wall two climbs past Miller Time. Climb up the moderately steep south face and arete. This route has so many huge holds it felt easy for the grade, especially if one used holds on the arete near the top. Savor those handles!

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Possibly protect the 1st bolt runout with small gear?

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Pumpy Fun. The 3rd or 4th bolt... I think 3rd... had a pretty loose nut. Looks like this happens often. Oct 15, 2017
Taketaketaketaketake ....take
Colorado Springs
 
Taketaketaketaketake ....take   Colorado Springs
 
I thought this felt more difficult than Cactus Drop (5.10d), which I did right before this route...it's pretty straightforward but pumpy and polished, and some of the bolts up top weren't where I wanted them. Still, great fun to climb. Apr 4, 2016
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Very juggy compared to many 10cs at Shelf, but it does kick back on you a bit! Still a must. Dec 16, 2013
CHopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
CHopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
For some extra fun, and to get a more accurate rating, stay on the face/bolt line (pockets and crimps) to anchors and off of the easy arete to the right. Loved it! May 28, 2011
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Consider extending that first bolt to prevent rope drag.

A couple of the nuts were loose with spinning hangers on this one - they could use a tightening. As others said, a little chossy and polished but totally worth it. May 26, 2009
Tlake
 
Tlake  
 
A new bolt appears to have been placed down low to protect the route below the ledge. Start on the arete itself (or a bit right) instead of climbing the slab directly beneath the route proper.

Great climb on a very pretty section of rock. Aug 20, 2007
This route may consist of more jugs than other 10c's at Shelf, but it's also deceivingly steep. I climbed it fast and had a blast; hanging around to contemplate your every move could be your demise :-) Oct 18, 2004
I would have to err on the side that it's soft for the grade. Years back, it was my first 5.10. Our guide said .10d at the time, which was definitely soft. Since it is slightly overhung, I think the pump factor exaggerates how difficult it feels for some. But let's keep in mind that it is indeed loaded with jugs, and really not very long if you take away the slab approach to the real climbing. May 5, 2003
I thought this climb was a significant challenge for the grade given. As stated, it's slightly overhung and pumpy, but what makes it really difficult is that all the good feet and hands are greasy from so many ascents.mike. May 5, 2003
A great warm-up climb, easy jug hauling with a nice pump factor. There is a new bolt at the start to protect the slab also. Mar 29, 2002
Yeah, watch out for the loose rocks at the top--Shane almost dropped it right on my head! Just joking, Bud! One of my all time favorite routes in Shelf!!! Mar 29, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Indeed, this route does have it's fair share of jugs. However, it can be a bit pumpy. Also, the rock above the anchor is very loose! Feb 13, 2002