Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,155 total · 29/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Spinney Dan is a really fun jug haul, just climb carefully through on easy ground to the very high first bolt. It is located on Contest Wall two climbs past Miller Time. Climb up the moderately steep south face and arete. This route has so many huge holds it felt easy for the grade, especially if one used holds on the arete near the top. Savor those handles!


5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Possibly protect the 1st bolt runout with small gear?


Shane Zentner
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Indeed, this route does have it's fair share of jugs. However, it can be a bit pumpy. Also, the rock above the anchor is very loose! Feb 13, 2002
Yeah, watch out for the loose rocks at the top--Shane almost dropped it right on my head! Just joking, Bud! One of my all time favorite routes in Shelf!!! Mar 29, 2002
A great warm-up climb, easy jug hauling with a nice pump factor. There is a new bolt at the start to protect the slab also. Mar 29, 2002
I thought this climb was a significant challenge for the grade given. As stated, it's slightly overhung and pumpy, but what makes it really difficult is that all the good feet and hands are greasy from so many ascents.mike. May 5, 2003
I would have to err on the side that it's soft for the grade. Years back, it was my first 5.10. Our guide said .10d at the time, which was definitely soft. Since it is slightly overhung, I think the pump factor exaggerates how difficult it feels for some. But let's keep in mind that it is indeed loaded with jugs, and really not very long if you take away the slab approach to the real climbing. May 5, 2003
This route may consist of more jugs than other 10c's at Shelf, but it's also deceivingly steep. I climbed it fast and had a blast; hanging around to contemplate your every move could be your demise :-) Oct 18, 2004
A new bolt appears to have been placed down low to protect the route below the ledge. Start on the arete itself (or a bit right) instead of climbing the slab directly beneath the route proper.

Great climb on a very pretty section of rock. Aug 20, 2007
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
Consider extending that first bolt to prevent rope drag.

A couple of the nuts were loose with spinning hangers on this one - they could use a tightening. As others said, a little chossy and polished but totally worth it. May 26, 2009
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
For some extra fun, and to get a more accurate rating, stay on the face/bolt line (pockets and crimps) to anchors and off of the easy arete to the right. Loved it! May 28, 2011
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Very juggy compared to many 10cs at Shelf, but it does kick back on you a bit! Still a must. Dec 16, 2013
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
I thought this felt more difficult than Cactus Drop (5.10d), which I did right before this route...it's pretty straightforward but pumpy and polished, and some of the bolts up top weren't where I wanted them. Still, great fun to climb. Apr 4, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Pumpy Fun. The 3rd or 4th bolt... I think 3rd... had a pretty loose nut. Looks like this happens often. Oct 15, 2017