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Routes in Supercrack Buttress

24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Amaretto Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anasazi T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Rad Duality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Binge and Purge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bongo Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fledge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Waste T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack of the Desert T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Supershack V2- 5+
Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
super bubbushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Mugs Stump and Bob Sullivan, 1978.
Page Views: 6,864 total, 35/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

At the far right side of Supercrack buttress, you will find this left-facing dihedral. [Just to the right of the large leaning block/cave with the Anasazi handprints on the inside]. The dihedral is not too cruxy, but it is long, so it will get hard. The route is 120', not 140' as suggested, and such was evidenced by my ability to lower off on a single 70M rope, with spare at the base.

The rock quality here is not quite as good as most of the area routes, particularly at the top, where the soft yellow stone can be eroded away by rubbing with the hands. As stated in the guide book, the route SHOULD have ended 20' sooner. But it didn't... So it gets only 2 stars.

In any case, the route is reasonably safe, and just a little less perfect for the fact of climbing into the poor stuff (larger gear up there too).

Climb up the dihedral using little dishes and smears on the left hand face for about 35 feet until a wall comes in behind you to create an inset, upon which you can rest your rear-end or back. This rest will get you off of your fingers.

The addition of the wall behind you makes the rest of the route an exercize in stemming, smearing, lie-backs and the occasional jam to reach the top.

Protection

Many .5-.1" cams and a few larger pieces to 3"

Photos

Mei
Mei  
Anasazi is a fun route as the star rating indicated. I here just want to point out that the OW TR off the same anchor is a really good one. It's not as dirty as it looks and has a couple of tricky spots to provide fun challenges. Pack your knee pads before heading up the trails so you don't have an excuse to skip it. :D May 7, 2017
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.11-
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.11-
Rad climb. (2) .4, (6) .5, (4) .75, (3) 1, (1) 2, and (1) 3 will sew it up. The .3/green alien fits perfectly in the horizontal towards the top. Nov 15, 2016
Izzy K.
Boulder, CO
 
Izzy K.   Boulder, CO
 
Mostly .5s! Sep 9, 2016
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
First Ascent from Bjornstad, 1988:

Mugs Stump and Bob Sullivan, 1978. Oct 22, 2009
Please disregard my anchor moving comment from years ago. Newbie silliness. Aug 14, 2008
An absolutely fantastic route. The anchor should certainly not be lowered, as the climbing on soft rock is easy and protectable, and actually quite fun. I placed a green alien in the horizontal. This piece is suspect in the soft rock, but even if it pulls your next cam is not far below and there is nothing to hit if you fall. I lowered off on a 70 meter rope. Oct 17, 2005
This route is characterized by a stembox ~30 feet up, which, like Tony mentions, provides a rest from the fingers / lieback start. The stembox is fairly unique for Indian Creek and provides a bit of rest prior to what I belive is the crux of the route; a section of thin hands through a few bulges.

Sure the rock is a little sandy and not that high quality toward the anchor, but that is part of the adventure that is "Anasazi".

I recommend this route based on my own experience leading it years ago. May 10, 2003
Murf  
The "white" section at the top is not the best, but is not too dangerous. I remember a key blue tcu placement in a horizontal pod which made me breathe alittle easier.

Tom Murphy Apr 1, 2003
"The junk at the top" is not that bad. Don't move the anchors. Feb 2, 2002
The junk at the top actually looked pretty dangerous so we lowered off before it on a nut and couple tricams - which I'm sure disappeared on the next ascent. The rest of the route is great though. Perhaps someone knows who put it up and could get permission to lower the anchor?! Nov 27, 2001