Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Mugs Stump and Bob Sullivan, 1978.
Page Views: 7,643 total · 36/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


At the far right side of Supercrack buttress, you will find this left-facing dihedral. [Just to the right of the large leaning block/cave with the Anasazi handprints on the inside]. The dihedral is not too cruxy, but it is long, so it will get hard. The route is 120', not 140' as suggested, and such was evidenced by my ability to lower off on a single 70M rope, with spare at the base.

The rock quality here is not quite as good as most of the area routes, particularly at the top, where the soft yellow stone can be eroded away by rubbing with the hands. As stated in the guide book, the route SHOULD have ended 20' sooner. But it didn't... So it gets only 2 stars.

In any case, the route is reasonably safe, and just a little less perfect for the fact of climbing into the poor stuff (larger gear up there too).

Climb up the dihedral using little dishes and smears on the left hand face for about 35 feet until a wall comes in behind you to create an inset, upon which you can rest your rear-end or back. This rest will get you off of your fingers.

The addition of the wall behind you makes the rest of the route an exercize in stemming, smearing, lie-backs and the occasional jam to reach the top.


Many .5-.1" cams and a few larger pieces to 3"


The junk at the top actually looked pretty dangerous so we lowered off before it on a nut and couple tricams - which I'm sure disappeared on the next ascent. The rest of the route is great though. Perhaps someone knows who put it up and could get permission to lower the anchor?! Nov 27, 2001
"The junk at the top" is not that bad. Don't move the anchors. Feb 2, 2002
The "white" section at the top is not the best, but is not too dangerous. I remember a key blue tcu placement in a horizontal pod which made me breathe alittle easier.

Tom Murphy Apr 1, 2003
This route is characterized by a stembox ~30 feet up, which, like Tony mentions, provides a rest from the fingers / lieback start. The stembox is fairly unique for Indian Creek and provides a bit of rest prior to what I belive is the crux of the route; a section of thin hands through a few bulges.

Sure the rock is a little sandy and not that high quality toward the anchor, but that is part of the adventure that is "Anasazi".

I recommend this route based on my own experience leading it years ago. May 10, 2003
An absolutely fantastic route. The anchor should certainly not be lowered, as the climbing on soft rock is easy and protectable, and actually quite fun. I placed a green alien in the horizontal. This piece is suspect in the soft rock, but even if it pulls your next cam is not far below and there is nothing to hit if you fall. I lowered off on a 70 meter rope. Oct 17, 2005
Please disregard my anchor moving comment from years ago. Newbie silliness. Aug 14, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
First Ascent from Bjornstad, 1988:

Mugs Stump and Bob Sullivan, 1978. Oct 22, 2009
Izzy K.
Jackson, WY
Izzy K.   Jackson, WY
Mostly .5s! Sep 9, 2016
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
Rad climb. (2) .4, (6) .5, (4) .75, (3) 1, (1) 2, and (1) 3 will sew it up. The .3/green alien fits perfectly in the horizontal towards the top. Nov 15, 2016
Anasazi is a fun route as the star rating indicated. I here just want to point out that the OW TR off the same anchor is a really good one. It's not as dirty as it looks and has a couple of tricky spots to provide fun challenges. Pack your knee pads before heading up the trails so you don't have an excuse to skip it. :D May 7, 2017