Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Mugs Stump and Bob Sullivan, 1978.
Page Views: 11,133 total · 41/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 31, 2001 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

*Climbing activity is impacting cultural resources at this site, please choose another route - See Pictures (attached below by Kate Godwin) and description from the BLM Monticello Field Office for more information.*

Description submitted prior to recognition of these artifacts, which are not immediately apparent if you don't look for them:

At the far right side of Supercrack buttress, you'll find this left-facing dihedral. [Just to the right of the large leaning block/cave with the Anasazi handprints on the inside]. The dihedral is not too cruxy, but it is long, so it will get hard. The route is 120', not 140' as suggested, and such was evidenced by my ability to lower off on a single 70M rope, with spare at the base.

The rock quality here is not quite as good as most of the area routes, particularly at the top, where the soft yellow stone can be eroded away by rubbing with the hands. As stated in the guide book, the route SHOULD have ended 20' sooner. But it didn't... So it gets only 2 stars.

In any case, the route is reasonably safe, and just a little less perfect for the fact of climbing into the poor stuff (larger gear up there too).

Climb up the dihedral using little dishes and smears on the left hand face for about 35 feet until a wall comes in behind you to create an inset, upon which you can rest your rear-end or back. This rest will get you off of your fingers.

The addition of the wall behind you makes the rest of the route an exercise in stemming, smearing, lie-backs and the occasional jam to reach the top.

Protection Suggest change

Many .5-.1" cams and a few larger pieces to 3"

But better yet, please do not climb this route, now that we know about the structure and rock art here.

Photos

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