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Anasazi

5.11-, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 123 votes
FA: Mugs Stump and Bob Sullivan, 1978.
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

*Climbing activity is impacting cultural resources at this site, please choose another route - See Pictures (attached below by Kate Godwin) and description from the BLM Monticello Field Office for more information.*

Description submitted prior to recognition of these artifacts, which are not immediately apparent if you don't look for them:

At the far right side of Supercrack buttress, you'll find this left-facing dihedral. [Just to the right of the large leaning block/cave with the Anasazi handprints on the inside]. The dihedral is not too cruxy, but it is long, so it will get hard. The route is 120', not 140' as suggested, and such was evidenced by my ability to lower off on a single 70M rope, with spare at the base.

The rock quality here is not quite as good as most of the area routes, particularly at the top, where the soft yellow stone can be eroded away by rubbing with the hands. As stated in the guide book, the route SHOULD have ended 20' sooner. But it didn't... So it gets only 2 stars.

In any case, the route is reasonably safe, and just a little less perfect for the fact of climbing into the poor stuff (larger gear up there too).

Climb up the dihedral using little dishes and smears on the left hand face for about 35 feet until a wall comes in behind you to create an inset, upon which you can rest your rear-end or back. This rest will get you off of your fingers.

The addition of the wall behind you makes the rest of the route an exercise in stemming, smearing, lie-backs and the occasional jam to reach the top.

Protection

Many .5-.1" cams and a few larger pieces to 3"

But better yet, please do not climb this route, now that we know about the structure and rock art here.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

cool route
[Hide Photo] cool route
Tony Bubb leads 'Anasazi (11a)', to just below the stembox rests. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 2001.
[Hide Photo] Tony Bubb leads 'Anasazi (11a)', to just below the stembox rests. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 2001.
Photo from BLM Monticello Field Office showing stacked rock and remains of prehistoric granary structure.
[Hide Photo] Photo from BLM Monticello Field Office showing stacked rock and remains of prehistoric granary structure.
Photo from BLM Monticello Field Office showing existing rock art and remains of a prehistoric granary structure.
[Hide Photo] Photo from BLM Monticello Field Office showing existing rock art and remains of a prehistoric granary structure.
Anasazi
[Hide Photo] Anasazi
Some cool pottery shards I found at the base. I left them there so you could enjoy them too, please leave them there for others to enjoy as well :D
[Hide Photo] Some cool pottery shards I found at the base. I left them there so you could enjoy them too, please leave them there for others to enjoy as well :D
Cool petroglyphs behind the route.
[Hide Photo] Cool petroglyphs behind the route.
thank god stem
[Hide Photo] thank god stem

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The junk at the top actually looked pretty dangerous so we lowered off before it on a nut and couple tricams - which I'm sure disappeared on the next ascent. The rest of the route is great though. Perhaps someone knows who put it up and could get permission to lower the anchor?! Nov 27, 2001
[Hide Comment] "The junk at the top" is not that bad. Don't move the anchors. Feb 2, 2002
[Hide Comment] The "white" section at the top is not the best, but is not too dangerous. I remember a key blue tcu placement in a horizontal pod which made me breathe alittle easier.

Tom Murphy Apr 1, 2003
[Hide Comment] This route is characterized by a stembox ~30 feet up, which, like Tony mentions, provides a rest from the fingers / lieback start. The stembox is fairly unique for Indian Creek and provides a bit of rest prior to what I belive is the crux of the route; a section of thin hands through a few bulges.

Sure the rock is a little sandy and not that high quality toward the anchor, but that is part of the adventure that is "Anasazi".

I recommend this route based on my own experience leading it years ago. May 10, 2003
[Hide Comment] An absolutely fantastic route. The anchor should certainly not be lowered, as the climbing on soft rock is easy and protectable, and actually quite fun. I placed a green alien in the horizontal. This piece is suspect in the soft rock, but even if it pulls your next cam is not far below and there is nothing to hit if you fall. I lowered off on a 70 meter rope. Oct 17, 2005
[Hide Comment] Please disregard my anchor moving comment from years ago. Newbie silliness. Aug 14, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] First Ascent from Bjornstad, 1988:

Mugs Stump and Bob Sullivan, 1978. Oct 22, 2009
Isabelle Tresemer
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Mostly .5s! Sep 9, 2016
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Rad climb. (2) .4, (6) .5, (4) .75, (3) 1, (1) 2, and (1) 3 will sew it up. The .3/green alien fits perfectly in the horizontal towards the top. Nov 15, 2016
Mei (pronounced as May)
Bay Area, but not in SF
[Hide Comment] Anasazi is a fun route as the star rating indicated. I here just want to point out that the OW TR off the same anchor is a really good one. It's not as dirty as it looks and has a couple of tricky spots to provide fun challenges. Pack your knee pads before heading up the trails so you don't have an excuse to skip it. :D May 7, 2017
Alex Houston
Portland, OR
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] High quality route, checked it out because the classics on buttress were packed, and had this one all to ourselves. Thought the first 1/3 of the route was pretty challenging for 11a as it was continuous .5s thumb-bars with no feet, but smaller/bigger hands might find it easier. Mar 31, 2019
[Hide Comment] I climbed this some years ago and had no idea about the "...climbing activity is impacting cultural resources at this site, please choose another route - See Pictures and description from the BLM Monticello Field Office for more information."

I Googled the above and couldn't find anything. Does anyone know what the specific issue is with this route? And does anyone have a link of the "pictures and description" from the BLM on this issue? Mar 30, 2023
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Hi Jim,
If you look through the photos attached on this page, you will see some including this one, added by Kate Godwin of the Access Fund:
mountainproject.com/assets/…

The text states:
“Photo from BLM Monticello Field Office showing existing rock art and remains of a prehistoric granary structure.”

There was also a photo of pottery shards found at the base of the route, which provide a bit more evidence that this is indeed a historic cultural site.
Had I noticed these things or known that at the time, I would not have climbed the route myself. Mar 30, 2023
chris spalding
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Was pretty psyched to try this route last week, but luckily looked at mountain project first and saw the comments referencing a cultural site. While the pottery shards are hard to spot, they're clearly there are the base of the route. Additionally, my partner and I found pictographs on the downed pillar that you climb through to get to the base of the route.

Obviously upon reading the comments here and seeing the pottery shards and pictographs we did not climb the route - I just wanted to echo the sentiment that this route should not be climbed even though it looks mega! There are a bunch of other great layback cracks nearby that should scratch the same itch. If you do walk near the route though the pictographs and pottery shards are pretty neat! May 1, 2023