West Pole 5.7+
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Bob Batterman at the crux of West Pole. The best 5...
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Description One of the best routes at Seneca, period. West Pole follows a more-or-less continues crack system through two roofs. It can probably be done in one pitch with a 70-meter rope.
P1: Climb up through the easy ledges to a pine tree. Belay either from rings (not advisable on a busy day) or gear.
P2: Follow the broken crack system until it runs into a corner at the bottom of the first roof. Go straight up through the roof and continue through the second. Follow a left-facing corner to a crack and then belay from rings.
Location West Pole begins at the same place as Old Man's and Conns West.
Protection Like most Seneca routes, West Pole protects well with passive gear. A double set of nuts and some hexes works fine. There are probably some pitons on the route; maybe some even of WWII vintage.
BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...
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BETA PHOTO: Leading the twin cracks toward the West Pole roofs...
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BETA PHOTO: Me leading past the second roof of West Pole.
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BETA PHOTO: Tanya following through the roofs at West Pole.
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By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 14, 2007
| One day when I was climbing a route nearby, two teenage girls headed up the trail and started racking up for Westpole. One of their fathers was a climber and had given them just enough gear to do Old Man's Route (5.2) - the route they TOLD HIM they were headed out to do. Instead they climbed Westpole with five nuts and two hexes! |
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.7+
| You can climb it as one pitch with a 60m rope which is commonly done. A super classic and yes, its only 5.7+! |
By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
Jun 26, 2008
| I think I left a C3 cam in the bottom of the roof this morning. |
By Jeremy P Franz
From: Greenville, SC
Aug 10, 2008
rating: 5.7+
| Great route, the direct finish (5.8) is exposed and enjoyable. |
By dinglestyle
From: Catonsville, MD
Feb 20, 2009
rating: 5.8
| Beware of the lose block right after the crux. I think it would be hard to pull it out, but you never know what a desperate person will do. Another Classic sandbag +=next grade up. |
By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.7+ PG13
| Awesome awesome climb. Had to set up a belay just before the first roof to decrease rope drag and get some gear back. Fun and exposed roofs, but totally do-able. Straight forward climb that was well protected the entire way. |
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 11, 2011
rating: 5.7+
| There's really two ways to start this route. The original line goes up the first few ledges of Old Man's until you reach the large ledge for the start of West Pole.
The second (and I'd say more fun) option is to climb the face and ledges directly below the pine tree at the start of West Pole, finishing on a hand-sized, left leaning crack. This should be considered West Pole Direct Start and probably rates 5.5/5.6 PG13/R. The climbing is easier down low where it might be a little runout. The gear placements are there in the upper part, but don't pass them up. A fall would almost certainly mean you'd hit a ledge.
With 60m rope you can easily link this Direct Start and P1 of West Pole. A #4 BD Cam sized piece is helpful for the belay below the roofs. |
By ajtwoface
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.7+
| This is a great route! It has two great roofs. However, here is a word of caution:
When you are climbing it be careful, below the first roof on the face there is a loose piece that is faintly marked with a chalk x. Don't touch it, it is tempting because it is such a good handhold. Additionally, there is a cinderblock size piece in the first roof that is super loose. You can lift it up and out. The guides were talking of transporting it out last time I was out there. There is a good jam behind the block that you can use but also don't touch that block. Other than that, have an amazing time on this route! |
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