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South Peak - West Face
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Casual In The Mind's Eye 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Prothro & Doyle, late 1970s/Weinmann & Baumgartner OCT 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 783
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 27, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: From the ledge above West Pole and Conn's West Dir...

Description 

P1: Climb the small crack to a good hold where the crack ends below the headwall. Traverse left about 6-8 feet to another small, thin crack behind a small maple tree. Climb the thin crack (crux) using finger locks and jams to the intersection with West Pole Direct Finish at the small roof and much wider crack. Finish on WPDF. 50-55 ft.

We did this line on 09OCT2011 after having looked at it numerous times. Couldn’t find anything about it anywhere. After a fairly exhaustive search, Hunt Prothro got back to us saying that he and Howard Doyle did this back in the late 70s or so but that they just never got around to writing it up. Years later he returned to it at a time when he had soloed up things such as West Pole, Bring On The Nubiles and WPDF. He backed off this route and explained that he "...can't see how I thought it was so casual. So it might be harder than I remember it being back in the day when we floated up things now lost in the mind's eye alone." - hence the name we gave it and the grade. Hunt told us to go ahead and give it a name, write it up and take credit. While we appreciate the offer, we know we couldn't just set aside an FA.

While it is a short line, it is good, hard fun and very airy up there. It's a little licheny down low, but the upper crack is brilliant and clean...harder than it looks. Overall it's very much a great way to finish off West Pole.

Any other info on this route is quite welcome.


Location 

On the West Pole/Conn's West Ledge below the Summit Ledge.

Start at a finger-crack about 5 feet to the right of the two-bolt anchor atop P2 of West Pole or about 10 feet left of the West Pole/Conn's West rappel tree. The West Pole Direct Finish (WPDF) crack will be about 10-15 feet to the left of this spot.

To descend, scramble down the back side off the top and down to the Summit Ledge.


Protection 

Take small cams down to #00 TCUs/Master Cams and small wires/micro nuts. A #4 BD Cam or equivalent is helpful for the brief wide section at the top of WPDF. You can sling one of the large blocks on the top of the formation for your belay anchor.



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