Login with Facebook
South Peak - West Face
Select Route:
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 

Casual In The Mind's Eye 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Prothro & Doyle, late 1970s/Weinmann & Baumgartner OCT 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 914
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: From the ledge above West Pole and Conn's West Dir...


P1: Climb the small crack to a good hold where the crack ends below the headwall. Traverse left about 6-8 feet to another small, thin crack behind a small maple tree. Climb the thin crack (crux) using finger locks and jams to the intersection with West Pole Direct Finish at the small roof and much wider crack. Finish on WPDF. 50-55 ft.

While it is a short line, it is good, hard fun and very airy up there. It's a little licheny down low, but the upper crack is brilliant and clean...harder than it looks. Overall it's very much a great way to finish off West Pole.


On the West Pole/Conn's West Ledge below the Summit Ledge.

Start at a finger-crack about 5 feet to the right of the two-bolt anchor atop P2 of West Pole or about 10 feet left of the West Pole/Conn's West rappel tree. The West Pole Direct Finish (WPDF) crack will be about 10-15 feet to the left of this spot.

To descend, scramble down the back side off the top and down to the Summit Ledge.


Take small cams down to #00 TCUs/Master Cams and small wires/micro nuts. A #4 BD Cam or equivalent is helpful for the brief wide section at the top of WPDF. You can sling one of the large blocks on the top of the formation for your belay anchor.

Comments on Casual In The Mind's Eye Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!