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Oregon
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Oregon Rock Climbing 


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Welcome 

Welcome to Oregon! Not quite as sunny and granitic as its southerly neighbor, nor as glaciated and impressive as its northerly one, this state still holds its own must-visit destination: the world-famous Smith Rock.

The golden tuff is actually an exception to the otherwise overwhelming majority of basalt crags. Besides the lower gorge, the best crack climbing in the state is without a doubt Trout Creek. Metropolitan crags include Broughton Bluff and Carver, not to mention those on the Washington side. If you're looking for a big wall, Wolf Rock has what you're looking for. And any peak-bagger's journey would be incomplete without a slog up the south side of Mt. Hood.

There are numerous adventure crags scattered all over the state, from the secluded Rattlesnake in the southwest to the expansive Spring Mountain in the northeast. Get out there and check them out!

Area Breakdown 

All crags have been sorted into areas by region. These are fairly intuitive and hopefully make finding crags easier.

Central Oregon - east of the mountains, centered around Redmond
Smith Rock, Trout Creek, The Badlands, Power Lines, Steins Pillar, Shepards Tower, Central Oregon Bouldering

Mt Hood - National Forest and the crags therein
Mt. Hood, French's Dome, Bulo Point, Klinger Springs, Lost Lake Boulders, Coethedral, Pete's Pile, Salmon River Slab, Enola Hill, Ramona Creek Crag, Illumination Rock, Area 51

Northeast Oregon - borders Idaho, centered on La Grande
Spring Mountain, Fiddler's Hell, High Valley, Burnt River Canyon, Anthony Lakes, Wallowa Mountains, Pine Creek

Oregon Volcanoes - the line of fire from Jefferson to Thielsen
Goat Peak, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Thielsen, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Three Sisters

Portland & The Gorge - metropolitan area and the Columbia
Broughton Bluff, Carver, Rocky Butte, Rat Cave, Pike Boulders, Rooster Rock

Southwest Oregon - borders California, centered on Medford
Rattlesnake, The Callahans, Greensprings, Williamson River Cliffs, Pilot Rock, Emigrant Lake, Rabbit Ears

Willamette Valley - from Salem to Cottage Grove including the National Forest
Flagstone, Wolf Rock, The Garden, Moolack, Hills Creek Spires, Skinner Butte, Harlen Rock Quarry, Canyon Creek, Mary's Peak

Climbing gyms in Oregon 

Portland metro area:
The Circuit SW
The Circuit NE
Stoneworks
Portland Rock Gym
Club Sport
Planet Granite

Eugene:
The Crux

Bend:
Bend Rock Gym

Medford:
Rogue Rock Gym

Salem:
The Rock Boxx

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 7.1 miles from here

2,076 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',254],['3 Stars',913],['2 Stars',625],['1 Star',184],['Bomb',9]
['<=5.6',124],['5.7',117],['5.8',165],['5.9',192],['5.10',565],['5.11',355],['5.12',245],['5.13',77],['>=5.14',17],['',0],['<=V1',50],['V2-3',35],['V4-5',46],['V6-7',19],['V8-9',19],['V10-11',3],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Oregon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Oregon:
Spiderman   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   Smith Rock : (p) Spiderman Buttress
Pioneer Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0     Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 250'   Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face
5 Gallon Buckets   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall
Voyage of the Cowdog   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches, 260'   Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall
Wherever I May Roam   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 5 pitches, 400'   (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face
Moonshine Dihedral   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals
Cruel Sister   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   West Side : (3) Catwalk Cliff
Gold Rush   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   Trout Creek : The Main Wall
Zion   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall
JR Token   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 65'   Trout Creek : The Main Wall
Moons of Pluto   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 95'   Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall
Wartley's Revenge   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S...
Pure Palm   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   West Side : (2) Wildfire Wall
Monkey Space   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face
Vomit Launch   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully
Toxic   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully
Dreamin'   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S...
Heinous Cling Start   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals
Chain Reaction   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals
Heinous Cling   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Oregon

Featured Route For Oregon
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up embryoinic. Bottom is a 9 until the led...

Embryonic 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Oregon : Smith Rock : ... : Reproductive Wall
Really cool pockets lead to a crux that pulls you around a small roof. The holds are good, but are sometimes far apart and even after the roof you need to stick it out until the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Photos of Oregon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt boulderin at Viewpoint Cliffs
Matt boulderin at Viewpoint Cliffs
Rock Climbing Photo: Hood
Hood
Rock Climbing Photo: Crater Lake, I think in 2001.  Amazing place.  Wiz...
Crater Lake, I think in 2001. Amazing place. Wiz...
Rock Climbing Photo:      THE CATHEDRAL at RATTLESNAKE The route is Ara...
BETA PHOTO: THE CATHEDRAL at RATTLESNAKE The route is Ara...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mountain lion near Mount Bailey.
Mountain lion near Mount Bailey.
Rock Climbing Photo: Oregon coast.
Oregon coast.
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail of Ten Falls. Silver Falls State Park.
Trail of Ten Falls. Silver Falls State Park.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunbeams at Tillimook Head.
Sunbeams at Tillimook Head.
Rock Climbing Photo: Smith Rock
Smith Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Callahans
Callahans
Rock Climbing Photo: somewhere in Oregon CRACKHEADS like this come a di...
somewhere in Oregon CRACKHEADS like this come a di...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wildflowers along the Timberline Trail, Mt. Hood.
Wildflowers along the Timberline Trail, Mt. Hood.
Rock Climbing Photo: Oregon Islands.
Oregon Islands.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Hood.
Mt. Hood.
Rock Climbing Photo: Three sisters taken from Mt. Jefferson. Summer 200...
Three sisters taken from Mt. Jefferson. Summer 200...
Rock Climbing Photo: South Sister. Photo by Blitzo.
South Sister. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Washington, 1976. Photo by Blitzo.
Mount Washington, 1976. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cascade Ale. Photo by Blitzo.
Cascade Ale. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crater Lake. Photo by Blitzo.
Crater Lake. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crater Lake, Oregon. Photo by Blitzo.
Crater Lake, Oregon. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Timberline Trail.
Timberline Trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Metlako Falls on the Eagle Creek trail.
Metlako Falls on the Eagle Creek trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Downtown Portland, Oregon
Downtown Portland, Oregon
Rock Climbing Photo: Elk River, inland a bit from Port Orford.
Elk River, inland a bit from Port Orford.

Show All 25 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Oregon Add Comment
Show which comments
By alpine glower
From: Soon to be Sweet Home, OR
Aug 29, 2010
To all those who keep posting areas with no drections and saying PM me or what ever nonsense... please stop! This is pointless. If you want someone to visit your area, post directions, thats the point of this site. Half the areas on here seem to be private with directions only given if you jump through some hoops. If thats the case don't post em on here!
By peachy spohn
Jul 28, 2011
Don't forget that there is a fee now for Beacon Rock. $10 per day or a $30 for an annual pass that is good for all Wash. State Parks.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 19, 2011
Welcome to Oregon Alpine Glower. The secret area thing cracks me up too, even though the Trout's have been here for a century. I posted a swimming hole for ya. The Elk River is a few miles north of Port Orford. Drive at least 6 miles up the river before the good holes begin appearing. There's climbing along the coast too, but the rock and anchors are usually horrible. Shoot me an email about anywhere and I'll help you spill the beans on the Proj.
By Mr. Holmes
From: Cascade West
Apr 5, 2012
A quick update regarding rumors surrounding the Rat Cave closure:

I spoke with USFS and yes,it is on their radar... however:

1) No, the crag is not closed to recreational use (this includes climbing); Access is still open.

2) USFS interaction has and will stem priamarily from concerns surrounding new route development (bolting/fixed anchors) and overall human impact.
They will be monitoring this site in the months/seasons to come!

3) The local USFS office is aware of the national MOU with the Access Fund and will connect with me directly regarding any future decisions or concerns though they are currently pleased with the " level of support and collaboration" from the Access Fund, as well as, the local climbing community.

This said, If you climb at the Rat Cave PLEASE KEEP A LOW PROFILE. If you don't.. then I hear "The Gullies" are splendid this time of year!
By pacowen
Jun 3, 2013
Anyone ever go up to Lowell crag outside of Eugene.20 or so routes up there 5-10 and harder
By Sarah Wolfe
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 1, 2016
Oregon climbers,

I've started Oregon Climbs, a monthly e-news focused on outdoor climbing throughout Oregon, to bring together information from a variety of other already-existent sources, as well as people throughout the OR climbing community, to create a cohesive and inclusive resource for all things climbing in OR.


Oregon Climbs
is sent out at the end of each month and includes:
- Wrap up of the previous month
- Preview of the coming month (date-specific events and programs)
- Alerts & FYI's (closures, openings, new routes, etc.)
- Local Yokel (city-specific outdoor climbing opportunities)
- Out of Oregon (nat'l climbing festivals or conferences)

If you are interested in joining my email list, please send an email to OregonClimbs@mail.com and put "Add me!" in the subject line.

Thanks so much!
Sarah Wolfe
Oregon Climbs
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