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Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Stain T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Road, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunatic To Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overnight Sensation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Panic Attack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That 10d S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Via Dolorosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brooke Sandahl, Feb. '88
Page Views: 18,730 total, 130/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This classic sport climb on the east face of the Prophet Wall ascends welded tuff on a steep face, slab, and over two roofs. The hardest move, before the initial roof, felt like 11d although two other 11 cruxes are encountered making the overall rating 12a. As A. Watts suggests, a 2' runner is helpful at the penultimate bolt under the final roof to prevent rope drag. Brilliant Climb!!

Protection

Quickdraws are all you need for pro. A fixed rappel anchor is at the top.
Halley13
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Halley13   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Considering the standard bolting style of Smith Rock, in my opinion, this route did not deserve the R that it gets in the book. Fantastic fun climbing! Oct 31, 2015
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
I second what Palo said back in 06...This would get constant traffic if it wasnt so scary to 11+ and 12- climbers!! Falling between the 4th and 5th bolt could result in an ugly fall, and a fall going to the 2nd bolt on the slab could be an ankle breaker. Still, an unbelievable climb and well worth being a little scared. Mar 12, 2013
slopdog  
This route will leave you day dreaming after you blow the on site just under the last roof. Such a beautiful and eye catching route for lower 12. AWESOME and RECOMMENDED Jun 20, 2012
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
On the subject of clean or not so clean falls, the fall from the moves just before the second bolt above the first roof (5th bolt?) is totally a potential ankle-breaker. The bolt is poorly placed and is a couple of feet off to the right, resulting in a very exciting and/or painful ride. Jun 1, 2010
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
 
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
 
PG13 Perhaps. If this route wasn't so dam scary to us low 12 climbers, it would see heaps of traffic. Either way, great movement on excellent rock, and superior position. Nov 20, 2006
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Some sporty runnouts on this one send some running but the falls are all clean. Feb 2, 2006