Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brooke Sandahl, Feb. '88
Page Views: 20,858 total · 132/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Description

This classic sport climb on the east face of the Prophet Wall ascends welded tuff on a steep face, slab, and over two roofs. The hardest move, before the initial roof, felt like 11d although two other 11 cruxes are encountered making the overall rating 12a. As A. Watts suggests, a 2' runner is helpful at the penultimate bolt under the final roof to prevent rope drag. Brilliant Climb!!

Protection

Quickdraws are all you need for pro. A fixed rappel anchor is at the top.
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Some sporty runnouts on this one send some running but the falls are all clean. Feb 2, 2006
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
 
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
 
PG13 Perhaps. If this route wasn't so dam scary to us low 12 climbers, it would see heaps of traffic. Either way, great movement on excellent rock, and superior position. Nov 20, 2006
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
On the subject of clean or not so clean falls, the fall from the moves just before the second bolt above the first roof (5th bolt?) is totally a potential ankle-breaker. The bolt is poorly placed and is a couple of feet off to the right, resulting in a very exciting and/or painful ride. Jun 1, 2010
slopdog  
This route will leave you day dreaming after you blow the on site just under the last roof. Such a beautiful and eye catching route for lower 12. AWESOME and RECOMMENDED Jun 20, 2012
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
I second what Palo said back in 06...This would get constant traffic if it wasnt so scary to 11+ and 12- climbers!! Falling between the 4th and 5th bolt could result in an ugly fall, and a fall going to the 2nd bolt on the slab could be an ankle breaker. Still, an unbelievable climb and well worth being a little scared. Mar 12, 2013
Halley13
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Halley13   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Considering the standard bolting style of Smith Rock, in my opinion, this route did not deserve the R that it gets in the book. Fantastic fun climbing! Oct 31, 2015