| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
No Picnic
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad
|
|
Oct 10, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. With Artem. Couldn’t get any HBs in the roof crack; I guess you need the straight nuts (or maybe it’s just garbage idk). Put a mediocre offset cam under the roof, a yellow totem below that, and a bomb 0.75 by the sidepull jug
Above the roof the pro is garbage until the overhang is done — rock is quite marginal
|
|
●
Rhododendron
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a2. The Uberfall - right
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 10, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. With Alex from Gunks Fest. Started from low this time. A black totem is better than that 0.5 I usually start with. Alex pinkpointed
|
|
●
Laurel
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a2. The Uberfall - right
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 10, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Clean! With Alex, who I’d met just two hours prior at gunks fest
Single rack, plus big nuts, plus red ballnut is sufficient. Doubles #3 and #0.5 is nice
|
|
●
Meathooks
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Grassi Lakes
> Meathooks Area
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Sep 18, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Did the first 3 bolts, then bolt-to-bolt after that. I figured Lucina would prefer not catching a whipper
I DEFINITELY need to project this one day. Mega jugs, mega steep. Great hands, better feet, relentless overhang
I’ll need to figure out the rests if I want this to go
|
|
●
Tiger
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Grassi Lakes
> Golf Course
|
11
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sport
|
|
Sep 18, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Quite chill, well bolted. Finish was a little confusing.
|
|
●
Birdie
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Grassi Lakes
> Golf Course
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sport
|
|
Sep 18, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Good holds; actually gets pretty vertical in spots
The routes are closely packed and it’s a little hard knowing which bolts are yours
|
|
●
Capstone Chimney
|
Europe
> …
1
2
3
> Black Hawk Area
> Heather Buttress
|
|
1
|
|
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trad
|
|
Aug 8, 2026 · Follow. Followed Ula. Quite chill. There are holds on every face, but you don't need them.
|
|
●
Inverted V
|
Europe
> …
1
2
3
> Christmas Crack
> Boot Buttress
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Aug 8, 2026 · Follow. This really wasn't too difficult. There was a brief tricky section in the corner. The roof was sustained but short. Ula slung a bunch of blocks for pro, but I think 1-2 large (#5/#6) pieces would be better
|
|
●
Bishop's Route
|
Europe
> …
1
2
3
> Christmas Crack
> Boot Buttress
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
|
Aug 2, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Fun, chill climbing. Nothing too tricky here. The gear is plentiful, but it's one of those climbs where you can't fall even though the gear is good. My anchor was atrocious; I can see why the brits like their indirect belays
|
|
●
Right-hand Trinity
|
Europe
> …
1
2
3
> Christmas Crack
> Black Slab Buttress
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
|
Aug 2, 2026 · Follow. The opening moves were strenuous (rand smear and a layback!). There was one other short crux, with a surprise jug to finish it. Ula's cam got stuck next to a fixed ancient Friend, and I had to spend several minutes retrieving the cam
|
|
●
Hollybush Crack
|
Europe
> …
1
2
3
> Christmas Crack
> Hollybush Crack Area
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad
|
|
Aug 2, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Great climbing, got plenty of hexes in for fun. Well protected.
|
|
●
Flying Buttress
|
Europe
> …
1
2
3
> Christmas Crack
> Flying Buttress
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad
|
|
Aug 2, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. First lead in the UK! Did the direct finish over the teeth. This looked like it was going to be hard, but it was quite chill. The crux was really in the corner after the slab
A #0.5 C4 provides some questionable first pro, and a #2 provides some questionable pro for the top-out
|
|
●
Christmas Crack
|
Europe
> …
1
2
3
> Christmas Crack
> Black Slab Buttress
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Aug 2, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. I really enjoyed this one. Not a lot of crack climbing, but there's a bit. A stemming move or two in the flaring open book.
|
|
●
Wrist
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> c. Frog's Head - the…
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Jul 12, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Emily lead p1, I lead P2
The first pitch offwidth goes with butterfly stacks, a footjam, then you’re at the jug
A #5 would likely be even better than a #4 for this, since the butterfly goes where the best 4 spot is
P2’s roof is exciting; a #2 at the start, a 0.5 further out. A long draw on your rightmost piece lets you keep the rope out of the horn below the roof
|
|
●
Graveyard Shift
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> e. The Mac Wall
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Trad
|
|
Jul 12, 2026 · TR. Very fun. More delicate than strenuous, but still pumpy. I don’t think any one move shut me down, just fatigue
Andrew lead, then Amy TRed, then I did, then Emily.
Andrew took some big whips! I think this climb will be a “no thank you” from me for leading. Glad I TRed it though
|
|
●
Wrist
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> c. Frog's Head - the…
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Jul 12, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Emily lead p1, I lead P2
The first pitch offwidth goes with butterfly stacks, a footjam, then you’re at the jug
A #5 would likely be even better than a #4 for this, since the butterfly goes where the best 4 spot is
P2’s roof is exciting; a #2 at the start, a 0.5 further out. A long draw on your rightmost piece lets you keep the rope out of the horn below the roof
|
|
●
Frog's Head
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> c. Frog's Head - the…
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Jul 12, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Lead P2, Emily lead P1. The roof is quite steep.
P1 is so slippery; I forgot there were two cruxes!
We meant to do Maria, but I gave bad directions for when to start the traverse. It’s almost immediately after the first crux
|
|
●
Triple Bulges
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> f. The Guides' Wall
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Jul 12, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Lead P1, follow P2
The P2 roof is a lot less intimidating from up close, and takes great gear
The gear otherwise is PG.
With Emily
|
|
●
Sonja
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Jun 20, 2026 · TR. Finally! Followed Matt. Many falls. This thing is tough and exhausting. If I were to ever lead it, I’d need to really have it dialed.
The jams themselves weren’t horrible; mostly paddle hands plus a few ring/finger locks. For the finish I did not use crack technique
|
|
●
Land of The Giants
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> a. Beginning of cliff…
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Jun 20, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Hooray! This is an excellent climb. I do wish I’d brought WAY more finger sized gear (0.2-0.4). Definitely triples, maybe quadruples? Was quite happy to have my offsets.
Steep jugs, but pretty well protected once you get up there
#4 for the upwards flake at the Gelsa start would be nice. #3 works but is tipped
With Matt
|
|
●
Loose Goose
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> c. Grease Gun to Closure
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Jun 20, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. “One of the loosest gooses I’ve ever goosed” - Matt
First pitch is quite nice. Interesting crack climbing, well protected
Second pitch is dirty with an oddly difficult roof
Third pitch is less dirty, but quite loose, hard to follow, and a little runout
Really quite the adventure
|
|
●
Beginner's Delight
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> f. The Guides' Wall
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
May 31, 2026 · With Annina on her second gunks lead. I lead P2, she lead P1. Annina forgot slings, oops! Hella rope drag apparently. I brought up the #4 but you really don’t need it. Leave it behind I guess?
|
|
●
Strictly From Nowhere
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> d. Strictly - The Cei…
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
May 31, 2026 · 1 pitch. Lead / Redpoint. 0.1 is helpful at the start after the bulge
The first half of this was quite spooky. Not a ton of pro to be had and lots of ledges to hit. Nothing hard, just not a ton of pro.
Below the roof above the ledge, it’s easy to get sucked into the right facing corner, but the face right below the roof is much better
With Nima. My 0.3 at the crux got stuck; a nice guy from the next party freed it. Thanks!
|
|
●
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> f. The Guides' Wall
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
May 31, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. With Nima.
A fun lead! There’s generally G pro everywhere, except the last pitch. There was one spot where you get a #2, then you gotta pull a bulge on less-than-ideal holds before reaching a hands free stance with gear. But the fall looks totally clean
|
|
●
The Golden Dream (AKA Dihed…
|
Gunks
> Peterskill
> s. The Golden Wall
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad, TR
|
|
May 25, 2026 · TR. Almost died on the approach; it was so wet and that slab is like a slip and slide. (Slight exaggeration, but broken bones seems not unlikely if you slide off that slab) Better to go around and take the tunnel entrance
Climbing itself was fine. It goes much better as a finger crack than dihedral pressing for the hands. The face was dry and crack was wet but the jams are secure
Well, fine until the crux, where the jams are no longer secure and the holds get wet
Lots of falls at the crux.
With Alice
|
|
●
Bronto Platter
|
Gunks
> Peterskill
> q. Chalkboard Wall
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Trad, TR
|
|
May 25, 2026 · TR. Wet due to rain. With Alice. Fun and varied. Not too bad, then the layback crux hits you! There are decent edges though, and it’s over quick. A #6 might be nice? Otherwise gear is at your feet when you start the layback!
It seemed like maybe you could traverse right instead? Not sure
|
|
●
Feast of Fools
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Apr 18, 2026 · TR. Set up after Proctoscope with Amy
This was very cool, but hardcore!
0.3 and 0.4 below the first roof.
A #3 protects below the second roof, a 0.3/0.4 offset with the piton at the roof, then a red ballnut in the dihedral above
|
|
●
Proctoscope
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Apr 18, 2026 · Follow. Amy lead. This seemed thin! You have to make some very committing moves above your gear, and the moves are thin around. Would be a pretty heady lead, probably not for me!
The upper crux is non-obvious; you need to move left and layback the crack. There’s no gear for a bit after that!
|
|
●
Bonnie's Roof
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Apr 18, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. With Amy. Lots of hangs. Hung at the bottom of the flake, then below the crux. For P2, hung above the roof on a jank #2, then left below the layback.
P1 and p2 direct
P1 — yellow DMM at the bottom of the hollow flake. #4 far left below the crux roof. Pull the roof to the left of the corner, good jugs. 0.4 in the roof crack mid crux.
Ideally save a .75 for the belay — brown tricam
Direct — crux — 0.4 is good pro, two might be good. left hand finger lock low, right hand finger lock, then bump the right hand pinky down to the top of the crack.
Went right, shoulda gone right. Save a 2 for above the roof, 1 below the layback, 0.75 for the layback
I wonder if a #5 would be easier to place below the roof? Perhaps not though
|
|
●
Diagon Alley
|
Powerlinez
> n. Perched Ramp…
> 7. Puzzle Palace
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad, TR
|
|
Apr 12, 2026 · TR. Enjoyed this one. The chimney moves were quite fun. Lots of spots where it feels very secure, but then it's not clear how to move up, so you just commit and it's fine.
Next time I do this, use the bolts on the ledge below the upper ledge. We used the bolts above The Handle and used a #1 above the roof and a 0.3 with a long sling below the roof to redirect
With Isiah
|
|
●
The Handle
|
Powerlinez
> n. Perched Ramp…
> 7. Puzzle Palace
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
TR
|
|
Apr 12, 2026 · TR. There's definitely a handle. Kinda contrived. With Isiah
|
|
●
Jesus Made Waffles
|
Powerlinez
> s. Books Tier
> 6. The Good Book
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
TR
|
|
Apr 12, 2026 · A neighboring climbing party (Jean and ?) loaned us their rope. Jacob and Isiah did Up the Slot. I did this, and then switch to UTS at the top bit
|
|
●
The Sins of the Son
|
Powerlinez
> s. Books Tier
> 6. The Good Book
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport, TR
|
|
Apr 12, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Isiah tried to lead again, but backed off. Jacob also struggled to get up past the 3rd bolt.
|
|
●
The Sins of the Son
|
Powerlinez
> s. Books Tier
> 6. The Good Book
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport, TR
|
|
Apr 12, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Isiah tried to lead, but backed off so I lead it. Hung at the 5th draw because I was a little confused. Turns out I needed to step out wide onto a good left foot, high (level w/ left) right foot under the lip, grab the rail with left hand.
Clipping from the rail just above the 6th bolt is way more comfy.
There's a new permadraw up. Makes the 0.3 less necessary
|
|
●
Fafnir
|
Powerlinez
> h. Revolutionar…
> 9. Basilisk
|
|
21
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad, TR
|
|
Apr 12, 2026 · TR. Not too bad, but very short. I believe it was a 0.5 kinda low to redirect off of Dragon's belly?
With Jacob, Isiah
|
|
●
Dragon's Belly
|
Powerlinez
> h. Revolutionar…
> 9. Basilisk
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad, TR
|
|
Apr 12, 2026 · TR. With Isiah, Jacob. In approach shoes. Offset cams might protect that delicate spot?
|
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