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Routes in The Flying Buttress

Flying Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flying Buttress Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wedge Rib T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Fergus Graham, 1922
Page Views: 1,248 total, 11/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Nov 16, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

What steepness and exposure for a HVD (5.5)! The original line of the buttress, Flying Buttress takes a devious line through the steepness on giant flakes and jugs. An intimidating but easy climb. Begin on the left side of the slab. Protect in a flake at 15 feet, and continue off the upper left hand corner of the slab. The next section is the crux: stand up into a slot, protect, and make a funky move or two to gain the upper flake. Cruise this to a ledge at the top and make a final exhilarating mantle on huge jugs. Note the bizarre chipped footholds near the top; one of the few instances of chipping on the edge.

Location

Left side of brutally obvious Flying Buttress, the centerpiece of Popular End. Descend a gully to the right of the climb.

Protection

Initial slab is unprotected until its end. Otherwise, hand-sized gear works beautifully.

Photos

Scott Phil   NC
This Silent Movie includes a 1940s ascent of Fly Buttress beginning at the 11:00 minute mark. Dec 14, 2013