Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jon Crefeld, 11/24/10
Page Views: 3,355 total · 54/month
Shared By: Norm Rasmussen on Apr 8, 2014 with improvements by kenr
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

Hard moves up to first bolt using tiny crack to ledge. Follow bolt line using small edges and crimps to under cling 3/4 of the way up. So negative holds bring you past last bolt to traverse right to anchors.

Location

Start below brighter orange block with a crack on it's right hand side. The crack and jug below it is well protected from rain and stays chalky. Follow the bolt line up and to the left.

Protection

7 bolts and 2-bolt anchor. 9 quick draws.

The steel bolts and hangers on this route are a holdover from before this area was legally opened for climbing. This hardware has not been maintained by the TVCC or Harriman Park, so whether or how to use them or not is your own responsibility.

For more detail, see The Good Book wall area page.

Descent

Either lower off on chains or walk to climbers left and access the 4th class descent.

Photos

jon crefeld  
 
This is one of the best of the 'Linez and if you're local, lol, it's definitely a destination climb! Apr 8, 2014
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a
Pretty easy for 5.10+ if you get your feet right Apr 23, 2014
Christopher Payan
Bronx, NY
  5.10b
Christopher Payan   Bronx, NY
  5.10b
This is a decent route, well worth doing if you make it out here. It is definitely not 5.10+, 5.10a seems right, however clipping a draw at a couple locations is quite reachy from the good stances and I am 5'10" which may be why some feel it is harder than it is. Also, first bolt is loose and I didn't carry a wrench. Apr 29, 2014
Adam Fernandez
Matawan NJ
  5.10b
Adam Fernandez   Matawan NJ
  5.10b
I would say in relation to the other climbs around it, its fair to call it 10b. May 4, 2014
kenr
  5.10b
kenr  
  5.10b
Lots of the key holds are positive horizontals -- so it's reachy. There are some long-ish deadpoints at 5ft7inch height. I'd guess for anyone much less than 5ft7inch tall (170cm) with normal reach, it really is like 10+ Sep 24, 2014
Will Cohen
Denver, Co
Will Cohen   Denver, Co
Only found 6 bolts on this today --did I miss something? Sep 29, 2014
petzl logic
Montreal, QC
 
petzl logic   Montreal, QC
 
Grade felt fine to me. A few of those moves are really committing! Oct 28, 2014
Don't know if this is commonly known but it took us a LOT of time to find move after the first ledge - the wall above looks really blank, but there's a super positive ledge to the right of the first bolt that is basically invisible from the stance below. Sep 27, 2015
kenr
  5.10b
kenr  
  5.10b
My current understanding is that the steel bolts and hangers on this route are a holdover from before this area was legally opened for climbing. They have not been approved (or disapproved) by the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition, and are not maintained by the TVCC or Harriman Park, so whether or how to use them or not is your own responsibility.

For more detail, see The Good Book area page May 16, 2017
Wolf L
New York, NY
  5.10b
Wolf L   New York, NY
  5.10b
The length of this climb is more like 50ft. A 35m rope was more than enough for top rope belaying from the bottom. Everything on this side of the good books can be done comfortably with a 35m rope. Feb 4, 2019