The Good Book Rock Climbing
|GPS:||41.146, -74.166 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||13,514 total · 242/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Jun 12, 2013|
DescriptionThe Good Book sector is one of the taller walls at Powerlinez with great rock, great moves. It has the only sport-climbing routes at Powerlinez.
Faces mainly SSW, so warm on winter afternoons, cool on summer mornings. Good drainage below, so typically less insects than certain other sectors.
top-roping: A long static line is needed to set up a top-rope on many of the routes, because the trees above the top of the wall are set back a ways from the top edge of the cliff.
One way to reach the top of the wall (especially the left half) to climb the Top-Bottom Access route, a bit left from the big alcove / cave /chimney at left center of this sector (4th class or 3rd class). Another (longer) way is to go to the Top Shelf sector and continue up right. Trying to scramble up around the right end likely requires first hiking way out around right - (see the instructions for sector Fairy Tales).
bolts: The bolts and hangers which are on five routes in The Good Book sector are composed of zinc-plated steel (sometimes known as "galvanized" steel) and were installed around 2010. They have not been approved (or disapproved) by the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition, and are not inspected or maintained by the TVCC or by Harriman State Park. There is concern that Powerlinez might be in high-corrosion region for steel: with acid rain from the west, and salt water 40 miles to south and east. Zinc-plated steel provides better corrosion-resistance than "plain carbon" steel, but there are other materials which are used nowadays for outdoor sport climbing which have much better corrosion-resistance. Each of those five routes could also be climbed by Top-Roping with the protection of a traditional anchor from above the cliff (such as a static line from a large tree). Whether to trust, or how to use, those bolts is a decision which each climbing party is responsible to make for themselves.
These bolts are a holdover from before when the area was legally opened in 2013. No new bolting is permitted (more info on the Powerlinez main area page and its Comments).
Getting ThereFrom the main Powerlinez trailhead on Torne Brook Rd (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.1423 W74.1623), walk North on dirt road gentle uphill for 0.2 mile to an intersection. Turn sharp Left on dirt road and go SouthWest about 0.1 mile to another intersection. Take the Right fork onto dirt road steep uphill and go about 0.2 mile NW then W then NW (soon gets gentler and turns into a hiking trail).
Next at (N41.1447 W74.1674) turn Right onto another trail whose start has logs along its sides, and go NE about 0.75 mile (soon with short rock scramble up through small cliff band, then gentle downhill and flat) to reach a cross junction (N41.1452 W74.1667) with another trail (the Tower Wall tier trail) which goes along the base of a boulder face just right of junction.
. . (This junction could also be reached by first going to the Tower Wall, then walking flat 400 feet W along the base of the cliffs).
Continue straight across this junction onto The Good Book access trail and go 0.13 mile on this ... at first up steep rocky slope NE about 100 feet, and after the top of that steep section continue on the trail ENE gentle about 330 feet. Then the trail curves Left and goes uphill WNW about 150 feet to reach The Good Book.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Good Book
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season