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Routes in 6. The Good Book

Adrian's Crack with Bush T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Apathy Killed the American Dream TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Atman / Brahman ? TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cam's Cool Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cap'n Ahab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Contortionist, The S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow's Nest Egg TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Death of the Magician, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gettin' Biblical TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gift of the Kneebar TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Good Book Top-Bottom Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Harpoon Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Am Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Krassy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Meryl's Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
My Climb is Ishmael T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nephalim, The S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prince Arjuna TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rachel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rebecca S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scurvy the Ship Dog T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sins of the Father, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sins of the Son, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Up the Slot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whalehunter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 670 ft
GPS: 41.146, -74.166 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,592 total · 242/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 12, 2013 with updates
Admins: SMarsh

Description

The Good Book sector is one of the taller walls at Powerlinez with great rock, great moves. It has the only sport-climbing routes at Powerlinez.

Faces mainly SSW, so warm on winter afternoons, cool on summer mornings. Good drainage below, so typically less insects than certain other sectors.

top-roping: A long static line is needed to set up a top-rope on many of the routes, because the trees above the top of the wall are set back a ways from the top edge of the cliff.

One way to reach the top of the wall (especially the left half) to climb the Top-Bottom Access route, a bit left from the big alcove / cave /chimney at left center of this sector (4th class or 3rd class). Another (longer) way is to go to the Top Shelf sector and continue up right. Trying to scramble up around the right end likely requires first hiking way out around right - (see the instructions for sector Fairy Tales).

bolts: The bolts and hangers which are on five routes in The Good Book sector are composed of zinc-plated steel (sometimes known as "galvanized" steel) and were installed around 2010. They have not been approved (or disapproved) by the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition, and are not inspected or maintained by the TVCC or by Harriman State Park. There is concern that Powerlinez might be in high-corrosion region for steel: with acid rain from the west, and salt water 40 miles to south and east. Zinc-plated steel provides better corrosion-resistance than "plain carbon" steel, but there are other materials which are used nowadays for outdoor sport climbing which have much better corrosion-resistance. Each of those five routes could also be climbed by Top-Roping with the protection of a traditional anchor from above the cliff (such as a static line from a large tree). Whether to trust, or how to use, those bolts is a decision which each climbing party is responsible to make for themselves.

These bolts are a holdover from before when the area was legally opened in 2013. No new bolting is permitted (more info on the Powerlinez main area page and its Comments).

Getting There

From the main Powerlinez trailhead on Torne Brook Rd (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.1423 W74.1623), walk North on dirt road gentle uphill for 0.2 mile to an intersection. Turn sharp Left on dirt road and go SouthWest about 0.1 mile to another intersection. Take the Right fork onto dirt road steep uphill and go about 0.2 mile NW then W then NW (soon gets gentler and turns into a hiking trail).

Next at (N41.1447 W74.1674) turn Right onto another trail whose start has logs along its sides, and go NE about 0.75 mile (soon with short rock scramble up through small cliff band, then gentle downhill and flat) to reach a cross junction (N41.1452 W74.1667) with another trail (the Tower Wall tier trail) which goes along the base of a boulder face just right of junction.
. . (This junction could also be reached by first going to the Tower Wall, then walking flat 400 feet W along the base of the cliffs).

Continue straight across this junction onto The Good Book access trail and go 0.13 mile on this ... at first up steep rocky slope NE about 100 feet, and after the top of that steep section continue on the trail ENE gentle about 330 feet. Then the trail curves Left and goes uphill WNW about 150 feet to reach The Good Book.

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Good Book

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kenr  
Bolts - inspection and maintenance.
Although the TVCC Board has not approved (or disapproved) the bolts and does not inspect or maintain the existing steel bolts which are on some routes at The Good Book sector, I've heard now in 2017 that some local climbers acting on their own initiative are intending to inspect and maintain the bolts.

Which likely would include some sort of inspection for corrosion -- and perhaps then replacement of bolts which are suspected of having significant safety problems.

This sounds like a rather good idea to me.

But I have not seen well-defined what the inspection procedures would be, and my non-expert understanding is that detecting corrosion on climbing bolts embedded inside rock is tricky and difficult - (might even require removing some sample bolts from the rock?).

Hope this process gets better developed so Sport climbers can have more information to guide their decisions about whether or how to use these bolts or not.
In the mean time, each party is responsible to use their own judgment based on the information and observations available so far.
. (Anyway all of these five routes can be climbed on Top-Rope using traditional anchors above the top of the cliff, with no reliance on bolts at all).

Ken

P.S. Just to offer a starting point for discussion, my personal non-expert view is that (although this variety of steel would likely not be chosen to install at Powerlinez nowadays in 2017), there's little reason to get concerned about dangerous corrosion with properly-installed zinc-plated / galvanized steel bolts until 2020 at the earliest. Jun 4, 2017
kenr  
Estimating the Approach:
The usual way most people get up to Good Book Wall nowadays is about
+330 vertical feet of uphill over distance about 0.65 mile (+100m vert over 1.05km) from parking on Torne Valley Rd. Typical approach times 18-35 minutes. Dec 12, 2015
I think the directions to get up to the good book wall are a tad out of date. When coming up from the dirt path, and following the path with the tower wall behind you, and walking along the rockface (to your right), the entrance to the ramp/stairs that go up to the good book wall is nearly a complete 180 u-turn. There are also double white trail markers on the tree at the entrance to the stairs/ramp that you will see if you look behind you. It is easy to miss if you are only looking out for orange trail marking tape. Aug 10, 2014
kenr  
Now that the new trail work is finished, the approach is no longer on an "orange" trail -- instead some white diamonds.

One way to get there is to start from the Tower Wall and going gentle West (left) for a ways past Three Bears and Daves Wall, the trail for Good Book Wall turns right and climbs uphill (long before you reach Basilisk Wall). I think the Right turn comes around
latitude longitude (N41.14523 W74.16670).
This point can also be reached (shorter?) without first going to Tower Wall. Jun 18, 2014

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