Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 269 total · 4/month
Shared By: kenr on Apr 8, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description

Lots of interesting moves.

Up 15 ft to base of diagonal ramp. Diagonal right up ramp 10 ft, then up 15 ft to wide ledge.
If Top-Roping, likely better to stop here and lower off.

Can get to top by walking RIght on ledge 10-12 ft then up gully/crack (interesting climbing, but rather vegetated and dirty as of 2017).
. . finish Variation: After walking right only about 6-8 ft, instead join the route Apathy Killed and finish up over right outside corner of overhand (5.10+).

warning: The rock around this route and sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

A few feet right from the Sins of the Son bolt line.

Find obvious long right-to-left trending diagonal overhang 1 ft to 1.5 ft deep, whose low right end is at the left end of a 1.5-2 ft deep roof 10 ft up from ground, and whose high left end is at an irregular rounded roofy overhang which is below an obvious right-facing inside corner at top of cliff. Start at or a bit left of the low right end of the long diagonal overhang.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Top-Rope:
The final 15 feet after walking right on the wide ledge is difficult to protect with something like a normal top-rope setup (without getting lots of rope drag or side-swing on the main lower parts).

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the description page for The Good Book sector.
. . (likely easiest with a long static line to reach some tree set way back from the top of the cliff).

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.
. . (Has someone ever led it? Who and when?)

Photos

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