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Routes in 6. The Good Book

Adrian's Crack with Bush T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Apathy Killed the American Dream TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Atman / Brahman ? TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cam's Cool Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cap'n Ahab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Contortionist, The S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow's Nest Egg TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Death of the Magician, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gettin' Biblical TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gift of the Kneebar TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Good Book Top-Bottom Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Harpoon Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Am Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Krassy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Meryl's Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
My Climb is Ishmael T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nephalim, The S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prince Arjuna TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rachel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rebecca S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scurvy the Ship Dog T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sins of the Father, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sins of the Son, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Up the Slot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whalehunter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 130 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Apr 8, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Lots of interesting moves.

Up 15 ft to base of diagonal ramp. Diagonal right up ramp 10 ft, then up 15 ft to wide ledge.
If Top-Roping, likely better to stop here and lower off.

Can get to top by walking RIght on ledge 10-12 ft then up gully/crack (interesting climbing, but rather vegetated and dirty as of 2017).
. . finish Variation: After walking right only about 6-8 ft, instead join the route Apathy Killed and finish up over right outside corner of overhand (5.10+).

warning: The rock around this route and sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

A few feet right from the Sins of the Son bolt line.

Find obvious long right-to-left trending diagonal overhang 1 ft to 1.5 ft deep, whose low right end is at the left end of a 1.5-2 ft deep roof 10 ft up from ground, and whose high left end is at an irregular rounded roofy overhang which is below an obvious right-facing inside corner at top of cliff. Start at or a bit left of the low right end of the long diagonal overhang.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Top-Rope:
The final 15 feet after walking right on the wide ledge is difficult to protect with something like a normal top-rope setup (without getting lots of rope drag or side-swing on the main lower parts).

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the description page for The Good Book sector.
. . (likely easiest with a long static line to reach some tree set way back from the top of the cliff).

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.
. . (Has someone ever led it? Who and when?)

Photos

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