Type: TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 638 total · 6/month
Shared By: kenr on Apr 8, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson, SMarsh

You & This Route


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Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

Description

Lots of interesting moves.

Up 15 ft to base of diagonal ramp. Diagonal right up ramp 10 ft, then up 15 ft to wide ledge.
If Top-Roping, likely better to stop here and lower off.

Can get to top by walking RIght on ledge 10-12 ft then up gully/crack (interesting climbing, but rather vegetated and dirty as of 2017).
. . finish Variation: After walking right only about 6-8 ft, instead join the route Apathy Killed and finish up over right outside corner of overhand (5.10+).

warning: The rock around this route and sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

A few feet right from the Sins of the Son bolt line.

Find obvious long right-to-left trending diagonal overhang 1 ft to 1.5 ft deep, whose low right end is at the left end of a 1.5-2 ft deep roof 10 ft up from ground, and whose high left end is at an irregular rounded roofy overhang which is below an obvious right-facing inside corner at top of cliff. Start at or a bit left of the low right end of the long diagonal overhang.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Top-Rope:
The final 15 feet after walking right on the wide ledge is difficult to protect with something like a normal top-rope setup (without getting lots of rope drag or side-swing on the main lower parts).

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the description page for The Good Book sector.
. . (likely easiest with a long static line to reach some tree set way back from the top of the cliff).

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.
. . (Has someone ever led it? Who and when?)

Photos

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