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Routes in 6. The Good Book

Adrian's Crack with Bush T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Atman / Brahman ? TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cam's Cool Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cap'n Ahab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Contortionist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crow's Nest Egg T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Getting Biblical T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gift of the Kneebar, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Harpoon Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Am Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Krassy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Meryl's Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
My Climb is Ishmael T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nephalim, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince Arjuna TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rachel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rebecca S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scurvy the Ship Dog T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sins of the Father, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sins of the Son, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Up the Slot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whalehunter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Camilo Pavone, Meryl Strata, June 2012
Page Views: 580 total, 13/month
Shared By: Norm Rasmussen on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description

Start on jugs (beware all the spider's webs!) into a right leaning crack with a small tree growing out of it (great pro!). Head straight up.

Location

Far left of the Good Book wall on a large ledge. The ledge disappears as you move more left.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

LB Edwards
Brooklyn, NY
  5.6
LB Edwards   Brooklyn, NY
  5.6
Bring a broom for this one - it gets filthy and the spiders get pretty crazy in the corners.

Definitely a little hard than a 5.5, just came off Papa Bear for this one and while I'd agree on a PG, it definitely feels a little PG13 towards the top.

Nice big boulder at the top for a few micro - small size cams and a tree to setup on. Or just sling the boulder and a tree. The choice is yours. Jul 5, 2017
David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
I don't see a reason to call this a PG13. There's a bit of runout at the top, but it's past the crux and even with the longer fall there aren't too many protrusions to run into if you fall. Micro cams are required to protect it well and the cracks can be dirty, but that's true of a lot of climbs in this area. Sling the tree. Some of the protection isn't perfect but there's plenty of it. Jul 3, 2017
kenr
  5.9-
kenr  
  5.9-
Seems like maybe a hold or two broke off since this interesting route was first discovered.

For me the crux was a little below the little tree. Not using the little tree as a hold makes the difficulty more sustained and interesting.

I felt lots of thought needed for the crux sequence, also above it to get past the tree. Maybe the difficulty went down to 5.8 after several tries, so I found all the best holds and got the sequence wired. But on-sight it doesn't hurt to have the finger endurance and move-sequence experience of a 5.9 climber. May 28, 2015