Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Jon Crefeld, 2010
Page Views: 106 total · 2/month
Shared By: kenr on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Not sure if this route exists any more -- perhaps a hold broke?

Up the crack (not using the block to right), and up to the top.

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Obvious curvy-vertical crack 23 ft of right end of the Harpoon + Ahab alcove roof, just left of 12-ft-high block which is 35-40 ft left of base of the left-diagonal descent gully (just left of the giant deep alcove).

Protection

Protection for Trad leading is unknown -- though apparently someone did it once (perhaps when the rock was different?).

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the description of The Good Book sector.
. . (likely easiest with a long static line to reach some tree set way back from the top of the cliff).

Photos

- No Photos -
kenr
  5.10
kenr  
  5.10
Looked like clear evidence (freshly exposed rock) that a key handhold had broken off recently, so the second crux is now way harder - (neither of us could get it).

For me the first crux is getting both hands established ont he horizontal. Likely much harder if you're much less than 5ft 9inch with normal reach. Second crux is getting into balance with feet on the next horizontal ledge above. (Maybe there's a third crux, but neither of us got that far). May 28, 2015