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Routes in 6. The Good Book

Adrian's Crack with Bush T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Apathy Killed the American Dream TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Atman / Brahman ? TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cam's Cool Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cap'n Ahab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Contortionist, The S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow's Nest Egg TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Death of the Magician, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gettin' Biblical TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gift of the Kneebar TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Good Book Top-Bottom Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Harpoon Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Am Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kafka on the Shore TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krassy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Meryl's Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
My Climb is Ishmael T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nephalim, The S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince Arjuna TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rachel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rebecca S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scurvy the Ship Dog T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sins of the Father, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sins of the Son, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Up the Slot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whalehunter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Jon Crefeld, 2010
Page Views: 87 total · 2/month
Shared By: kenr on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Not sure if this route exists any more -- perhaps a hold broke?

Up the crack (not using the block to right), and up to the top.

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Obvious curvy-vertical crack 23 ft of right end of the Harpoon + Ahab alcove roof, just left of 12-ft-high block which is 35-40 ft left of base of the left-diagonal descent gully (just left of the giant deep alcove).

Protection

Protection for Trad leading is unknown -- though apparently someone did it once (perhaps when the rock was different?).

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the description of The Good Book sector.
. . (likely easiest with a long static line to reach some tree set way back from the top of the cliff).

Photos

- No Photos -
kenr
 
kenr  
 
Looked like clear evidence (freshly exposed rock) that a key handhold had broken off recently, so the second crux is now way harder - (neither of us could get it).

For me the first crux is getting both hands established ont he horizontal. Likely much harder if you're much less than 5ft 9inch with normal reach. Second crux is getting into balance with feet on the next horizontal ledge above. (Maybe there's a third crux, but neither of us got that far). May 28, 2015

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