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Routes in 6. The Good Book

Adrian's Crack with Bush T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Atman / Brahman ? TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cam's Cool Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cap'n Ahab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Contortionist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crow's Nest Egg TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gettin' Biblical TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gift of the Kneebar, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Harpoon Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Am Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Krassy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Meryl's Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
My Climb is Ishmael T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nephalim, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince Arjuna TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rachel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rebecca S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scurvy the Ship Dog T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sins of the Father, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sins of the Son, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Up the Slot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whalehunter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 773 total, 14/month
Shared By: burboeck on Jun 12, 2013
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Follow the diagonal crack up to the small roof. Exit around to the left and then follow the arete up to the top.

Protection

Good trees for TR. No fixed/rap anchor.

Photos

LB Edwards
Brooklyn, NY
  5.7+
LB Edwards   Brooklyn, NY
  5.7+
The first move is committing. Your balance plays a huge part and you need to be aware of the tree parallel to the route if you swing out. The tree can make getting into the roof easier or getting back into the climb. After that you have big bouldering power moves and a great surprise behind the arete.

I climbed this for a 2nd time that day to see how feasible a lead would be by placing pro. The beginning can definitely be done, there is a great chance of decking until you find that solid pro under the roof.

After that it definitely gets a little run out or just littered with questionable quality of rock and placements - and honestly, after standing at the top trying to top out safely I think this route could possibly change in the coming years with more climbers on it and the freeze-thaw cycles. I heard a few hollow clunking sounds standing at the top of the arete.

Enjoy this one, safely. It's definitely on the verge of being a classic at the Powerlinez. Jul 5, 2017
David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
Due to a recovering sprain of the right ankle I backed off this route, so I won't venture a rating, but I will note that the crux is low enough and around enough sharp features that I don't think it can be protected effectively. This seems like a dire lead for those who lead at the grade. Jul 3, 2017
kenr
  5.9+
kenr  
  5.9+
The "roof" is the Whalehunter roof (perhaps not so small?). The "crack" is the off-width on the left side of the small arete which goes up to the Whalehunter crux sequence through the center of the route.
. (so the obvious way to start Whalehunter is on the right side of this small arete).

If do not use the tree, I felt the crux was getting off the ground. And then the next couple of moves not so easy. The rest is fun (if find the good holds).
. (using the tree in the starting moves is easier, and fun in it's own way).

Variety of fun interesting moves - (would get more stars if it were longer). May 27, 2015