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Apathy Killed the American Dream
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in 6. The Good Book
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Adrian's Crack with Bush T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Apathy Killed the American Dream TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Atman / Brahman ? TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cam's Cool Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Cap'n Ahab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Contortionist, The S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Corduroy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crow's Nest Egg TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Death of the Magician, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gettin' Biblical TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gift of the Kneebar TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Good Book Top-Bottom Access T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Harpoon Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hit The Deckah T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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I Am Time T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jesus Made Waffles TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Kafka on the Shore T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Krassy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Last Supper, The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Lumberjack Fantasy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Meryl's Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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My Climb is Ishmael T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nephalim, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Prince Arjuna T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rachel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ramapo Torn (aka The Ripper) T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Rebecca S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Scurvy the Ship Dog T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sins of the Father, The TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sins of the Son, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Squish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Up the Slot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Whalehunter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wine Into Syrup TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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WWJD T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | TR Brendan Lynaugh + Patrick Connally |
| Page Views: | 913 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Dec 20, 2017 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Two reachy crux sequences much harder than the rest (which also has some interesting moves).
Up about 25 ft through right-facing corner (crux). Next horizontal left about five feet onto face.
. . (variation: easier but less interesting is instead to continue straight up small gully/crack).
Up the face to a wide ledge below overhang. Finish up over the right corner of the overhang (second crux).
warning: The rock around this route and sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Up about 25 ft through right-facing corner (crux). Next horizontal left about five feet onto face.
. . (variation: easier but less interesting is instead to continue straight up small gully/crack).
Up the face to a wide ledge below overhang. Finish up over the right corner of the overhang (second crux).
warning: The rock around this route and sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
About 20 feet right from the Sins of the Sons bolt line.
Below Right-facing inside corner not more than a foot deep, about ten feet off ground ... which forms the right edge of a blank face to the right of the Gettin' Biblical corner and ramp.
- - > see on this Photo
Below Right-facing inside corner not more than a foot deep, about ten feet off ground ... which forms the right edge of a blank face to the right of the Gettin' Biblical corner and ramp.
- - > see on this Photo
Protection
Top-Rope: For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the description page for The Good Book sector.
. . (likely easiest with a long static line to reach some tree set way back from the top of the cliff).
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
. . (likely easiest with a long static line to reach some tree set way back from the top of the cliff).
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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