Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,317 total · 38/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 24, 2013
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route

47 Opinions

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Couple of awkward moves, then easier.

Up to the obvious right-facing corner and up on that, then trend left a bit to the top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).


Right-most bolt line of this sector (9 ft right from The Nephalim).

Below obvious right-facing inside corner 15 ft up on right side of 3-ft-deep roof.

- - > See on this Photo


5 bolts plus shared 2-bolt anchor with The Nephalim.
. . (For more info about the composition, history, and maintenance status of the installed hardware,
. . . See the description page for The Good Book sector).

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the description of The Good Book Sector, or perhaps scramble up around the right end of
the Fairy Tales sector


Adam Fernandez
Matawan NJ
Adam Fernandez   Matawan NJ
I believe this route is actually a harder climb than the 5.10 next to it on the left with a more strenuous stance to clip the second bolt. Nov 24, 2013
It's definitely brainier and I think there is a good possibility some holds broke since it's original grade. But, I have been told that there is an easy way... Just have to figure it out. Apr 8, 2014
To me seemed like one strenuous move with some thought required for how to set up for it. May 28, 2015
Ben Duchac  
Cruised through this early in the summer, and then came back and struggled for a long time trying to get up on the roof - either something broke off or I'm getting stupider... both definitely possible. Felt more like a 9+/10a this time. Nov 30, 2015
Eric Chung
Rockland County, NY
Eric Chung   Rockland County, NY
Definitely didn't feel like a 5.9 after a couple key holds broke off. I thought it actually felt harder than the Nephalim right next to it. There's a bomber #2 Camalot placement in the horizontal crack under the roof to protect the move right before the first bolt. Aug 2, 2016
My current understanding is that the steel bolts and hangers on this route are a holdover from before this area was legally opened for climbing. They have not been approved (or disapproved) by the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition, and are not maintained by the TVCC or Harriman Park, so whether or how to use them or not is your own responsibility.

For more detail, see The Good Book area page May 16, 2017
Interesting climb. I don't know if something broke off, but I wouldn't want to lead it, with the crux between 1st and second bolt, you would deck if you fall. Definitely easier if you are tall. Dec 4, 2017