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Routes in 9. Basilisk

Billy Get Your Guns T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chopper Noise T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chossy? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankzilla T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dragon's Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Earth Dragon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fafnir TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flake n' Take TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzz, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Gentlemen Return Fire TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Hashtag, Swag, Yolo TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
PROJECT T,TR 5.15c/d 9c 38 XIII- 40 E11 8c
Paper Mache TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Load of Chips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Testicular Trauma TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
There is No Spoon TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Too Many Video Games TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Treehugger TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: FA TR Brian Najjar, unknown
Page Views: 317 total, 8/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Up the crack, which goes up to right-facing corner crack. Finish to big left-pointing tree (more horizontal than vertical), which is above obvious right-facing corner with wider crack.

Variation: Start up the shorter crack to the right.

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

At the right edge of sector Basilisk is a big right-facing inside corner with a big crazy tree at its top. Left 25 ft from this is a left-facing inside corner with a shallow roof to its left a ways up. Fafnir is the slightly-left-trending crack which is about 15 ft right from the left-facing corner and about 10 ft left from the right-facing corner.

Protection

Leading: normal NY style Trad rack - (though of course not likely to need doubles on such a short route).

Top-Roping: Easiest with a long static line from a tree set back from the top of the cliff (perhaps rappel or down-climb a short ways below the top to set the carabiners lower, to avoid drag / abrasion of belay rope running over the top edge).
Or could build an anchor at the top of the route placing multiple pieces of Trad protection gear.

For more ideas about setting up Top-Rope anchor, see the area page for this Basilisk sector.

Photos

Systematic
  5.7
Systematic  
  5.7
A couple of nice moves. 5.7G. As far as an anchor, I equalized 2 trees with a long static rope. Dec 2, 2016