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Routes in 9. Basilisk

Billy Get Your Guns T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chopper Noise T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chossy? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankzilla T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dragon's Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Earth Dragon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fafnir TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flake n' Take TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzz, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Gentlemen Return Fire TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Hashtag, Swag, Yolo TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
PROJECT T,TR 5.15c/d 9c 38 XIII- 40 E11 8c
Paper Mache TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Load of Chips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Testicular Trauma TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
There is No Spoon TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Too Many Video Games TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Treehugger TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: FA TR Dave Barone, FFA Chaoqing, June 2013
Page Views: 754 total, 19/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 10, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Up over right side of roof, then up face to the top.

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Under low roof just right from 15-ft-wide alcove capped by high deep roof.

Protection

Leading: normal NY style Trad rack, perhaps with emphasis on smaller stuff.

Top-Roping: Trees above top of cliff are set a ways back, so it's easiest if bring a long static line for setting up top anchor.
For more ideas about setting up Top-Rope anchor, see the area page for this Basilisk sector.

Photos

Seth Dooley
  5.8+ PG13
Seth Dooley  
  5.8+ PG13
Really great climb. Begin in the crux and takes a big pull to get over the roof. Good gear placements for cams down low allowing solid protection for pulling the roof. Crux makes this climb feel pretty hard for a 5.8 until you know the moves. Jul 17, 2017
Systematic
  5.8
Systematic  
  5.8
Fun, sustained. Sandy over the roof. Finger size cams + medium cams + medium nuts. 5.8G Dec 2, 2016
kenr
  5.9+
kenr  
  5.9+
Lower half was interesting, upper half less fun. May 20, 2015