Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: FA TR Dave Barone, FFA Chaoqing, June 2013
Page Views: 844 total · 16/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 10, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Up over right side of roof, then up face to the top.

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Under low roof just right from 15-ft-wide alcove capped by high deep roof.

Protection

Leading: normal NY style Trad rack, perhaps with emphasis on smaller stuff.

Top-Roping: Trees above top of cliff are set a ways back, so it's easiest if bring a long static line for setting up top anchor.
For more ideas about setting up Top-Rope anchor, see the area page for this Basilisk sector.

Photos

kenr
  5.9+
kenr  
  5.9+
Lower half was interesting, upper half less fun. May 20, 2015
Systematic
  5.8
Systematic  
  5.8
Fun, sustained. Sandy over the roof. Finger size cams + medium cams + medium nuts. 5.8G Dec 2, 2016
Seth D
New jersey
  5.8+ PG13
Seth D   New jersey
  5.8+ PG13
Really great climb. Begin in the crux and takes a big pull to get over the roof. Good gear placements for cams down low allowing solid protection for pulling the roof. Crux makes this climb feel pretty hard for a 5.8 until you know the moves. Jul 17, 2017