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Ryan A

Highland Park, NJ
Male

Member Since
Jul 21, 2018
Last Visit: 4 days ago
47 Points
Point Rank: #16,969 DetailsDrop down

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Likes Trad, Sport, Tr, Gym
Leads Follows
Trad 5.5 5.9
Sport 5.8 5.10a
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Ticks View All 552

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 490
Baby
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. O/S pitch 2. Havin lead P1. Offwidthed P1 which was very fun. P2 is great. Good gear, relatively clean falls. 0.5 protects the crux I thought the roof was unusual for the gunks — more a layback roof than a “get good jugs, get high feet” roof
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 235
Wrist
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Lead P1, Havin lead P2. Lots of jamming on P1, with an offwidth (or layback) finish. #3 or 4 would be safe, but both (or even a 5?) keep you comfy. A 0.4 can be placed at the top of the corner It’s a little strenuous to place the gear from the right, but if you traverse over the stance is good. I think it would be interesting to try to climb the offwidth as an offwidth P2 has an exciting traverse. #1/2 for gear. Sew it up to avoid a deck. I’m tall enough to be on good feet the whole time
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 338
Snooky's Return
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. Got it! G at the hard moves, but PG, maybe even PG-13, elsewhere. All the holds are quite secure, so you shouldn’t really fall unexpectedly as long as you move slowly and deliberately Initial slab has no gear until the bulge. Yellow DMM nut below the roof is good, so is an 0.2/0.3 offset cam underneath. A 0.3 apparently works left as well under the roof Then sew it up with nuts until the slots run out. At the ledge, it’s a red ballnut all the way right of the opening, or a green 0 Z4. Kinda scary but you make one more move and the gear is good again Used a 0.4/0.5 offset cam somewhere in there, got a chicken head on the right Above the ledge with the pin, got a 0.3 2 lobe totem. I wonder if a 0.1, a vertical black tricam, or a turned nut would have been better? Bring double nuts next time No need for anything bigger than 0.75. I placed nothing bigger than a 0.5
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 622
Laurel
Nov 2, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. With Ki. Grey Z4 already placed from prior attempt. Started on the right crimp and left sidepull, backstepped right foot, left foot onto the good foot. Placed the red ballnut with the copper facing right (ball into the corner) (totally bomber, bounce tested it later). Then I grabbed a left sidepull near the pieces, a right sidepull crimp somewhere, got my left foot to the obvious foot, and soared to victory. After that, you get an immediate 0.5, then a few moves up (a little dicey, needs a good belay to stay safe), you get a good nut. Maybe there was something small I could have gotten sooner? A #4 is nice for the start of the crack, but it soon narrows to a #3 I could hit with a high clip. Opening crux gear is: 0.4 z4 in the obvious spot, red ballnut just above it. A bomber brassy can apparently also go in the seam just below. Then 0.5 in the next obvious placement after the just is gained
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 622
Laurel
Nov 2, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. With Ki. Tried a red ballnut as Ki suggested, but it was shallow. I replaced it with a blue ballnut and backed it up with a 0.4 Z4 below that. Fell trying to go for the jug; the blue ballnut popped and the Z4 caught my fall. Very glad I had that Z4!
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 106
Updraft
Nov 2, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. With Ki. Lead P2 to reach the CCK belay. Pretty interesting climbing. I wouldn't have been sad to have a #5 or #6 with me. Plenty of gear where you need it
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Baby Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
 490
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. O/S pitch 2. Havin lead P1. Offwidthed P1 which was very fun. P2 is great. Good gear, relatively clean falls. 0.5 protects the crux I thought the roof was unusual for the gunks — more a layback roof than a “get good jugs, get high feet” roof
Wrist Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
 235
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Lead P1, Havin lead P2. Lots of jamming on P1, with an offwidth (or layback) finish. #3 or 4 would be safe, but both (or even a 5?) keep you comfy. A 0.4 can be placed at the top of the corner It’s a little strenuous to place the gear from the right, but if you traverse over the stance is good. I think it would be interesting to try to climb the offwidth as an offwidth P2 has an exciting traverse. #1/2 for gear. Sew it up to avoid a deck. I’m tall enough to be on good feet the whole time
Snooky's Return Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall
 338
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. Got it! G at the hard moves, but PG, maybe even PG-13, elsewhere. All the holds are quite secure, so you shouldn’t really fall unexpectedly as long as you move slowly and deliberately Initial slab has no gear until the bulge. Yellow DMM nut below the roof is good, so is an 0.2/0.3 offset cam underneath. A 0.3 apparently works left as well under the roof Then sew it up with nuts until the slots run out. At the ledge, it’s a red ballnut all the way right of the opening, or a green 0 Z4. Kinda scary but you make one more move and the gear is good again Used a 0.4/0.5 offset cam somewhere in there, got a chicken head on the right Above the ledge with the pin, got a 0.3 2 lobe totem. I wonder if a 0.1, a vertical black tricam, or a turned nut would have been better? Bring double nuts next time No need for anything bigger than 0.75. I placed nothing bigger than a 0.5
Laurel Gunks > Trapps > a2. The Uberfall - right
 622
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Nov 2, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. With Ki. Grey Z4 already placed from prior attempt. Started on the right crimp and left sidepull, backstepped right foot, left foot onto the good foot. Placed the red ballnut with the copper facing right (ball into the corner) (totally bomber, bounce tested it later). Then I grabbed a left sidepull near the pieces, a right sidepull crimp somewhere, got my left foot to the obvious foot, and soared to victory. After that, you get an immediate 0.5, then a few moves up (a little dicey, needs a good belay to stay safe), you get a good nut. Maybe there was something small I could have gotten sooner? A #4 is nice for the start of the crack, but it soon narrows to a #3 I could hit with a high clip. Opening crux gear is: 0.4 z4 in the obvious spot, red ballnut just above it. A bomber brassy can apparently also go in the seam just below. Then 0.5 in the next obvious placement after the just is gained
Laurel Gunks > Trapps > a2. The Uberfall - right
 622
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Nov 2, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. With Ki. Tried a red ballnut as Ki suggested, but it was shallow. I replaced it with a blue ballnut and backed it up with a 0.4 Z4 below that. Fell trying to go for the jug; the blue ballnut popped and the Z4 caught my fall. Very glad I had that Z4!
Updraft Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
 106
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Nov 2, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. With Ki. Lead P2 to reach the CCK belay. Pretty interesting climbing. I wouldn't have been sad to have a #5 or #6 with me. Plenty of gear where you need it

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 29 15 5
Last Year 182 103 30
5 Years 689 514 141
All Time 748 552 159

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