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John Kear > Comments
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Oct 20, 2025
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I’m pretty sure this is a route that Robin Puro Kear and I cleaned and redpointed in the fall on 2021. I ag…
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Dec 1, 2014
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Excellent! I just wanted it to keep going for a 1000ft. Very sustained and interesting climbing with each…
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Aug 25, 2014
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This is a great headwall variation. The climbing is awesome and continuous. We climbed directly up to the…
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Jun 30, 2014
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So in response to the last couple of posts about car to car times on the Knife Edge. Glad DTP and PatrickV…
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Jun 4, 2012
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Bill You were probably looking at Where Eagles Dare. It is the route immediately south or right of The Gr…
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May 21, 2012
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I thought this route had been posted on MP long ago, I'm not sure what happened to it. Lee Brinckerhoff, B…
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Aug 23, 2011
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Did this route today. I seriously doubt this is Gary Hick's route, There is a River, knowing Gary and the…
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Aug 13, 2011
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Alam The new route just below Excalibur is the first pitch of watchman's secret. This pitch goes up under…
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May 29, 2011
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Yes you want to go down the northside of the formation after rapping off the backside. This will return yo…
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Jan 31, 2011
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The most challenging link up of the Duran routes is to start on the the right hand of the two, Duran Duran…
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Dec 25, 2010
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Excellent addition to the crag, the best warm up in the Solar Cave section.
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Nov 21, 2010
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Carolyn Parker and I cleaned this line but the anchor was already there. The original line climbs a little…
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Nov 21, 2010
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Carolyn Parker and I cleaned and bolted the anchor for this climb in 2004 which was likely the FA. We thou…
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Nov 21, 2010
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Carolyn Parker and I put up this route in 2004 or so. Finger Flake is as good of a name as any.
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Nov 7, 2010
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Amazing climbing with a couple of super burly cruxes. The first and second pitches are ultra high quality.…
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Nov 6, 2010
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Stu You definitely weren't on the 2nd pitch of LYJ it is only 10a. Sounds like you traversed into the sec…
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Oct 21, 2010
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This is indeed a great route. The climbing is steep, clean, interesting and sustained. The belays are all…
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Oct 21, 2010
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Going straight up is recommended on pitch 5. You can also continue straight up the wall for another two pit…
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Oct 7, 2010
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It is hard to tell, but there is actually a piece right at my waist and I got another within a body length.
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Oct 7, 2010
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This pitch can be led without the bolts, it protects adequately without any of the fixed protection.
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Oct 3, 2010
Albuquerque Area
> Sandia Mountain…
> La Cueva Canyon…
> Torreon
> Estrellada (a.k.a. Mt… (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b)
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Yes it's one and the same, ah the good ole days when Elijah used to climb!
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Sep 18, 2010
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Marc I spoke to Bryan Pletta about re-doing the fixed gear on this route after you and I climbed it severa…
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Sep 10, 2010
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Very nice new route with cruxes at the ends of the pitches. Psychical and steep climbing with awesome big…
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Sep 7, 2010
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Went back to this climb today and rappelled all the way to the base of the good clean rock, about 160ft. W…
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Aug 27, 2010
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In order to avoid a factor 2 fall on the anchor when leaving the 3rd belay on LYJ, there is a nice slot for…
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Aug 27, 2010
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For whatever reason this route is far less enjoyable than I remember it being 15 years ago. It seems loose…
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Aug 22, 2010
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This is actually a pretty good route, I used to do it quite a bit. For the grade and length it's one of th…
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Jul 5, 2010
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You definitely can't stop to clip through the crux section. The fall, with a good belayer is completely sa…
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Jul 2, 2010
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There is no roof on pitch 4. If you are going this way you're doing a variation and no wonder it is super…
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Jun 26, 2010
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I did lead this thing the other day, it was heady for sure. Might be harder than 11- my partner felt it was…
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Jun 23, 2010
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Definitely good climbing, anyone going to do this route should expect solid 5.11 climbing. Led this thing…
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Jun 21, 2010
Albuquerque Area
> Sandia Mountain…
> Juan Tabo Canyon
> Shield
> Standard S Route (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)
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"W" is the standard finish for Procrastination. Its 2-3 pitches of 5.6ish climbing. It's a bit dirty and…
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Jun 16, 2010
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I'm not sure when the hold at the crux broke off completely, I know it has been crumbling for several year…
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Jun 2, 2010
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Jason, it sounds like you were indeed off to the right of the line after the 1st pitch. There is some good…
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May 26, 2010
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Did GTTLD again yesterday for a little early season Sandia romp. Did some spring cleaning and added a bolt…
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Apr 26, 2010
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The route starts right of the original water stains route. Halfbreed climbs up the right hand water streak…
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