The Chimney Rock Climbing
|GPS:||35.213, -106.454 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Steven VanSickle on Jul 21, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
From the platform just below the summit block, Mike Hill's guidebook recommends rapping down into the saddle to the east. That looks like it would be a simple single ~75 foot drop, followed by some 3rd/4th class downclimbing. However, the current rap station (a big slung block with rings and biners) is pretty far back from the east edge of the platform, so if you do drop down the east side, drag might make it very problematic to pull the rope once you are down (or not, try it and report back).
However, from the platform, the rap station is presently set up to drop down the north face. This involves two airy, ~95-foot raps (tie end knots!). The intermediate rap station is another slung block perched precariously on a small ledge (the block is a little smaller than I'd like to see, though, kinda spooky). It's also a pretty awkward and crowded stance, and don't lose control of the ends of your rope.
You could also theoretically just do one rap down the north face from the platform, and stop on the sloping ledges above the intermediate rap anchor. You could then downclimb these 5.3 ledges down to the east saddle.
(from Chris Wenker)
On August 13, 2021 a bolted chain rap anchor was placed on the north end of the Chimney summit to alleviate the rope drag mentioned above and to avoid using the spooky-sized block. There is also a nice stance there to get your rap rigged properly. Doubles of 70m should get you down to the start of the climb from here. Another bolted chain rap anchor was placed just about 28m below this point on August 17, 2021, with another 25m or so to the ground. Climbers should be able to get down using a 60m rope with two rappels. Still tie your ends! (from: Aaron Miller, William LaRue, George Slota).
Classic Climbing Routes at The Chimney
Days w Precip