GPS: 35.213, -106.453 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Steven VanSickle on Jul 21, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

Small lichen covered pinnacle that the canyon is named after. Great summit with loose rock.

Getting There

The obvious smaller tower, directly in front of you when you're descending into Chimney Canyon.

Descent Beta

From the platform just below the summit block, Mike Hill's guidebook recommends rapping down into the saddle to the east. That looks like it would be a simple single ~75 foot drop, followed by some 3rd/4th class downclimbing. However, the current rap station (a big slung block with rings and biners) is pretty far back from the east edge of the platform, so if you do drop down the east side, drag might make it very problematic to pull the rope once you are down (or not, try it and report back).
However, from the platform, the rap station is presently set up to drop down the north face. This involves two airy, ~95-foot raps (tie end knots!). The intermediate rap station is another slung block perched precariously on a small ledge (the block is a little smaller than I'd like to see, though, kinda spooky). It's also a pretty awkward and crowded stance, and don't lose control of the ends of your rope.
You could also theoretically just do one rap down the north face from the platform, and stop on the sloping ledges above the intermediate rap anchor. You could then downclimb these 5.3 ledges down to the east saddle.
(from Chris Wenker)

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Chimney

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Rocky Racoon
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rocky Racoon
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
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