GPS: 35.202, -106.446 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 15,858 total · 95/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 4, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

The formations name is a little misleading, as only the summit of Bush Shark Spire is detached from the main wall. However this makes it easy to spot when approaching from Echo Canyon.

Getting There

Find the Sandia Crest Spur trail at the south end of the Sandia Crest parking area. Follow it down and past its junction with the La Luz trail (.5 miles). At this junction for Bush Shark Spire, you will drop down into echo canyon by heading southeast. Hug the east wall of the canyon past the Techweeny Buttress. The trail eventually flattens out at the base of Bush Shark Spire.

Alternate approach #1) Continue south on the La Luz trail towards the tram, look for a climbers trail that forks off right about 5 minutes from the Crest Spur Trail junction. This trail leads to the top of the massive wall behind Bush Shark Spire. From here a north facing gulley can be used to access the Bush Shark area. The gulley is short but steep with a short 4th class section at its end. After the 4th class section heading south (left) will land you at the base of Bush Shark Spire.

Alternate approach #2) Rapping in from Big T....I have rapped in using double ropes...however cant remmeber which anchors we skipped...to be continued [Alam notes: Note on these raps - the top bolts are very hard to locate. They are out on the point that has a tree, but are about 20 feet down the ledge, and are blocked from view above by a block... the gulley to the north can be done in about 15 mintues, bushy but is much faster than setting 2 raps]

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bush Shark Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Bush Shark Spire
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Garden Party
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 27
Westron Wynde
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 6
Ghost Rider
Trad, Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 10
Feeding Frenzy
Trad, Alpine
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 28
Big - T
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 4
Cabron
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Hammerhead
Trad, Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Blood In The Water
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bush Shark Spire
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Garden Party
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
Westron Wynde
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Ghost Rider
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
Feeding Frenzy
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine
Big - T
 28
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Cabron
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Hammerhead
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Blood In The Water
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Bush Shark Area »

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