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Routes in Bush Shark Area

Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

The formations name is a little misleading, as only the summit of Bush Shark Spire is detached from the main wall. However this makes it easy to spot when approaching from Echo Canyon.

Getting There

Find the Sandia Crest Spur trail at the south end of the Sandia Crest parking area. Follow it down and past its junction with the La Luz trail (.5 miles). At this junction for Bush Shark Spire, you will drop down into echo canyon by heading southeast. Hug the east wall of the canyon past the Techweeny Buttress. The trail eventually flattens out at the base of Bush Shark Spire.

Alternate approach #1) Continue south on the La Luz trail towards the tram, look for a climbers trail that forks off right about 5 minutes from the Crest Spur Trail junction. This trail leads to the top of the massive wall behind Bush Shark Spire. From here a north facing gulley can be used to access the Bush Shark area. The gulley is short but steep with a short 4th class section at its end. After the 4th class section heading south (left) will land you at the base of Bush Shark Spire.

Alternate approach #2) Rapping in from Big T....I have rapped in using double ropes...however cant remmeber which anchors we skipped...to be continued [Alam notes: Note on these raps - the top bolts are very hard to locate. They are out on the point that has a tree, but are about 20 feet down the ledge, and are blocked from view above by a block... the gulley to the north can be done in about 15 mintues, bushy but is much faster than setting 2 raps]

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bush Shark Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Approach options:
1) Walk down the main Echo Canyon gully, hugging the left side, passing Techweenie Buttress. Not too bad. Fastest way to walk to the base.
2) Walk down the gully just left (north) of Big T. Not too bad, but more bushwhacking than (#1). Fastest way to walk to the base from the top.
3) Rappel in by Big T (4 raps off 2-bolt anchors, with 70m rope). Need to leave long runner/cordelette on only the highest rappel point; all others are fully equipped. Good if you don't want to walk to the base.
4) Rappel in Ghost Rider (4 raps off 2-bolt anchors, with 70m rope). Need to leave some runners on top anchor only; all others are fully equipped. The last anchor is almost in the "old Bush Shark descent gully", rather than Ghost Rider proper. Also good.

All are ok, depending what you're up to. Jun 9, 2013
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
The Jaramillo routes are Cabron 5.10 A2+ and Pantomime 5.10+. They are both right of Westeron Wynde and share climbing in the middle. Topos are available at Stone Age Climbing Gym in the big blue binder with local area updates and info.

The rappels down the Big T can be done with a single 70m rope, a 60m leaves you a little short on the second rappel. Sep 19, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Thanks for adding this link. There's at least one more route not described on RC.com. I don;t know the name, buts its a 5.13a or b that starts at ground level left of "Hammerhead" and surmounts the big roof on the SW prow of bush shark spire. The first half of the pitch ascends a gear-protected, dirty open book at around 5.10. The second half heads left over the big roof with gymnastic moves. FA Lee Brinkerhoff, summer 2005. One could probably discern the route name by viewing Lee's 8a.nu scorecard.

My understanding is that most of the routes were put in by Lee and Lance Hadfield, all drilled by hand. Both of these lads work at Stoneage and happy to give out beta. The three pitch 10+ (Big T?) is a really good route (the only one I've done). It would be really helpful if someone could figure out and post the beta for rapping in to these routes, which makes the approach bushwhack-free. I've done before but I was tagging alon gand can't remember how we did it. I know we rapped into "the notch" at one point. Jul 13, 2007

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