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Palomas Peak Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 8,475 ft | 2,583 m |
| GPS: |
35.23184, -106.40253 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 182,925 total · 787/month | |
| Shared By: | Anthony Stout on Jan 24, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Palomas Peak (8,250ft) is a minor peak in the Sandia massif. As in the Sandia Mountains proper, the top layer of Palomas is limestone, forming in this case two separate cliff bands; the higher cliff band (at around 8,000ft) is the developed Palomas crag, although the lower cliff band is seeing some limited development (the online guide only covers the upper cliff band; the lower band has few routes, is exposed to rockfall from activity on the higher band, and features rock of much lower quality.) The limestone is of good quality, with very sharp, highly textured surface; taping up for cracks is mandatory and frequent resoling necessary. Be prepared for a lot of smearing and edging and for small holds. The crag has two Flavors: one area at the south end is very steep and features hard (12s and 13s) overhanging climbs, while the rest is a mix of natural-pro cracks and bolted, nearly vertical slabs; the latter are the most characteristic feature of Palomas. The cliff band varies from 30ft to 70ft, with most climbs in the 50-60ft range.
ANCHOR INFORMATION
With hardware provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), the NM Mountain Club's Climb Section completed a project to update anchors at Little River Wall with lowering hooks in March 2024. All routes now have hardened steel lowering hardware installed. It's not advised to toprope through the lowering hardware. Both gates of the lowering hooks are oriented facing forward and do not offer sufficient protection for toproping. Instead, build your own anchor with personal gear and have only the last person lower off the fixed lowering hardware. A donation to the ASCA helps fund future anchor upgrades.
ORIENTING YOURSELF AT PALOMAS PEAK
In October 2024, twelve (12) official USFS signs were installed along the Palomas Peak cliff band to help climbers orient while climbing at the area. The signs are bolted to the rock at the start of each area and match the names used on MountainProject.com and in the printed guidebooks.
The Palomas Peak climbing area is composed of 12 different walls listed below from right (southeast end, first area you hit as you come upon the climbing area along the trail) to the left (northwest end).
(00) The Right Wing
(01) The Entrance
(02) The Slab Wall
(03) The Franks
(03.5) The Dove Bar
(04) Showdown Wall
(05) The Transition Zone
(06) The Dihedral Wall
(07) Randy's Wall
(08) The Far Side I
(09) The Far Side II
(10) Red Light District
Getting There
From Albuquerque, take I-40 east, exit at Tijeras (Exit 175) and head north on NM 14 through Cedar Crest; after about 6 miles, turn left onto the Sandia Crest Road (NM 536); soon after passing the ski area base (about 9 miles after leaving NM 14), turn right onto a dirt road leading to Placitas (NM 165); after about 2 miles, stop at the 3 concrete barriers on the right side of the road. (If you get to Las Huertas picnic ground or the Sandia Man Cave, you have gone way too far down.) Drive time is 30-40 mins.
From Santa Fe, you can take I-25 to Placitas, exit to NM 165 and drive 14 miles to the parking area (the last 5 miles on dirt that requires a higher clearance vehicles), but it is faster to take NM 14 south to the junction with the Sandia Crest Road and proceed as above.
PARKING LOT COORDINATES:
35.22641, -106.40940
Parking is limited: there is room for 8-9 cars at the 3 concrete barriers if you park perpendicular to the barriers; about 40m down the road from the turn, there is room (sideways) for 4 more cars on the uphill side; rangers will ticket car that impinges upon the roadway. PLEASE CARPOOL and PARK WELL!
To access the trail, walk through the concrete barriers at the parking area. Follow the trail for approximately .7 miles to an intersection clearly marked with Forest Service signs. At this intersection, take a hard LEFT and start hiking up the hill. Hike up the hill for approximately .25 miles until you arrive to the start of the cliff and a signed Forest Service second intersection. Proceed straight along the cliff band for the climbing area. Allow about half an hour for the hike up with a full pack. Please stay on the trail: the native flora is easily damaged.
From December till March, expect hazardous driving conditions on the dirt road (often only accessible from the Placitas side), possibly deep snow on the trail (bring mountaineering boots or snowshoes), and cold temperatures, although the rock dries up quickly and stays warm in the sun.
Classic Climbing Routes at Palomas Peak
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