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Routes in (05) The Transition Zone

Doggie Go Roof S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Factory Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have Slab Will Travel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Princess S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rode Hard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stick To Stucco S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wavy Gravy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Lance Hadfield, Bryan Pletta, and Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,711 total, 13/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Don't miss this one! Great climbing. The climb can be recognized by three large roofs that the bolt line goes through. Start below the first roof and head straight up. After clipping the third bolt, a reachy move gets you past the large second roof (think, hand Jam, though I have heard of people finding a crimp somewhere). Technical climbing and stemming through the rest of the climb gets you to the anchors.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors.

Photos

This thing is way harder than Lucky Boy 11c, Quick Draw Mcgraw 11b/c and I think harder than Gunslinger 11d. its certainly more sustained than any of the above. So 11c? 11d? 12a? aah who cares, its a great climb! May 18, 2009
Dave Wachter
  5.11+
Dave Wachter  
  5.11+
As good as any 5.11 in New Mexico! When you reach the anchors (at least 50ft, though I'll agree it's no rope-stretcher) you won't likely find yourself needing more. Steep and juggy, to steep and technical, to just over vertical and technical. Climbs like a 12a, and could get that rating at some crags. Can get a tenuous rest or two after the roof crux, but this route is characterized by sustained difficult climbing. Mar 2, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
This route has the best rock at Palomas. For a second I thought I was at Rifle, but then I clipped the chains after 35 feet, and I knew it wasn't so. Nov 17, 2006