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Routes in (09) The Far Side II

Blonde Ambition S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Checkers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Miss Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Cheese S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fine Line S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hangman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knee Jerk Reaction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lonesome Dove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Hanging Fruit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Main Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patchwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pizza Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pussy Whipped S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Settled Science S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinister Base S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Take 'n Bake S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger by the Tail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Watch Out For That Tree S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Brian Pletta and Mark Thomas
Page Views: 2,279 total · 17/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A Palomas classic! One of the best moderates here, and quite a popular warm up. Start in the dihedral left of Patchwork. Stem through the first 2 bolts and head left onto the face. The crux is after the 5th bolt. The online guidebook notes 7 bolts and an "easy runout on the arete". I was recently told that an extra bolt was added to this climb, though I did not count the bolts. There may be 8. I also do not remember anything being significantly run out.

Protection

7 or 8 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Eric A.
 
Eric A.  
 
Good climb, the crux after the 5th bolt has some pretty fun movement.

As of 5/15/16 the right anchor appears to have been re-bolted and is now stable. However, the new bolt is wider than the original and the chains are a little short for the new width. When cleaning and rapping down the chains were pulled in at a steeper angle than I felt comfortable with. If some kind soul could find it in their hearts to add some draws or quick links to lengthen the rappel points it would be much appreciated. May 15, 2016
Nathan Kofahl
Albuquerque, NM
 
Nathan Kofahl   Albuquerque, NM
 
The right-hand anchor bolt hanger is a bit loose as of 5/2/14. The hardware looks good as far as I can tell (don't have much experience here), but the hanger was spinning on the rock a bit when I clipped draws into it at the top. May 3, 2014
Ken Jones
Grants, NM
  5.9+
Ken Jones   Grants, NM
  5.9+
Fun climb. There are 8 bolts. Sep 3, 2011
Dave Wachter  
 
My favorite warm-up. If you're new to Palomas, it's worth the trek out not only for the climb, but for the quality hike and overview of the crag. Mar 2, 2008