Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 45 ft|
|Page Views:||3,423 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on May 16, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionAnother controversial Slab Wall route, this gymnastic line may be characterized as a vision of things to come, or a complete travesty. Certainly this route could be lead with natural gear, but for better or worse, the route has been fully bolted, and apparently 'comfortized', for your sport-climbing pleasure.
If you can ignore the ethical issues, this route offers a unique hybrid of trad and sport climbing styles. Well developed jamming skills are necessary as are sport climbing techniques and finger strength.
The crux hits right above the choss band with an intense ring lock, devious feet and sequential jamming. A traverse up and right leads to a bomber, sharp, finger-lock and the third bolt. From here things ease up to 5.11-ish hand jamming and the occasional 2-3-finger pocket. Fight the pump through good jams and some long reaches between pods to the anchor.
Be sure to tape up your hands and many fingers for this bad-boy! This route's probably a soft-touch at 13a.
LocationSecond route from the right on the Slab Wall. Follows the most prominent bolted crack on the wall.
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