Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Bryan Pletta, Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,740 total · 14/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Nov 3, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: June 15, 2018 - Sandia Mountains closed due to Cibola National Forest Stage III fire restrictions Details

Description

Go up the short face and follow the left-leaning corner system (the first 4 bolts are shared with Pussy Whipped). Then move right onto the steep crux headwall past the final 2 bolts.

Previously described by Moret (2003) in the online guide, and by Jackson (2006:283-284).

Location

Shares the start with Pussy Whipped.
Located between Don't Miss Out and Sinister Base.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Lee H
Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Lee H   Albuqueruqe,NM
 
The headwall is not at all obvious (and definitely harder than Lonesome Dove). I couldn't figure it out, so I went right and used the crack.

edit: I went back and found a few pretty big crimps just left of the crack on the right that made it better. I'd still say a bit harder than lonesome dove. Fun route, and the move from pussy whipped to the tiger by the tail face isn't that difficult, but it is exciting. Apr 8, 2015