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Routes in (09) The Far Side II

Blonde Ambition S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Checkers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Miss Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Cheese S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fine Line S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hangman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knee Jerk Reaction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lonesome Dove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Hanging Fruit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Main Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patchwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pizza Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pussy Whipped S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Settled Science S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinister Base S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Take 'n Bake S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger by the Tail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Watch Out For That Tree S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Bryan Pletta, Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,684 total · 14/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Nov 3, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description [Edit]

Go up the short face and follow the left-leaning corner system (the first 4 bolts are shared with Pussy Whipped). Then move right onto the steep crux headwall past the final 2 bolts.

Previously described by Moret (2003) in the online guide, and by Jackson (2006:283-284).

Location [Edit]

Shares the start with Pussy Whipped.
Located between Don't Miss Out and Sinister Base.

Protection [Edit]

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Lee H
Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Lee H   Albuqueruqe,NM
 
The headwall is not at all obvious (and definitely harder than Lonesome Dove). I couldn't figure it out, so I went right and used the crack.

edit: I went back and found a few pretty big crimps just left of the crack on the right that made it better. I'd still say a bit harder than lonesome dove. Fun route, and the move from pussy whipped to the tiger by the tail face isn't that difficult, but it is exciting. Apr 8, 2015

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