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Sun Devil Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sun Devil Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Appendicitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Astro Devil S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Heat Seeker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Icarus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Persephone's Parole T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Seventh Sun S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Suicidal Society S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sun Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Sun Devil Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Suntoucher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	5,000 ft	1,524 m
GPS:	35.80568, -106.14055 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Aaron Miller on Feb 21, 2011
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

This wall boasts the classic multi-pitch lines that have made Diablo Canyon famous to the outside communities. If you climb nothing else at Diablo, or it is your first time, I would take a hard look at these lines before you leave. This wall faces south and therefore makes for nice sunny climbing on colder days, but you can catch some great shade on early Summer mornings too, perhaps before 11am.

Many of the routes top out on Diablo Mesa, where you can walk off the back to your car. But they all have decent rappel stations that should get you to the ground without too much headache.

Getting There

This is the wall you pass on the way to the Solar Cave, on the North side of Diablo Canyon. It is around the corner to the south from the Winter wall.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sun Devil Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 12 ● Sun Devil Crack Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 36 ● Appendicitis Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 7 ● Persephone's Parole Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 35 ● Heat Seeker Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 45 ● Sun Devil Sport 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 19 ● Suntoucher Sport 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 30 ● Astro Devil Sport 3 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 12 ● Seventh Sun Sport 3 pitches