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Routes in Sun Devil Wall

Appendicitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Devil S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Heat Seeker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Icarus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seventh Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Suicidal Society S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sun Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sun Devil Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Suntoucher S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Description

This wall boasts the classic multi-pitch lines that have made Diablo Canyon famous to the outside communities. If you climb nothing else at Diablo, or it is your first time, I would take a hard look at these lines before you leave. This wall faces south and therefore makes for nice sunny climbing on colder days, but you can catch some great shade on early Summer mornings too, perhaps before 11am.

Many of the routes top out on Diablo Mesa, where you can walk off the back to your car. But they all have decent rappel stations that should get you to the ground without too much headache.

Getting There

This is the wall you pass on the way to the Solar Cave, on the North side of Diablo Canyon. It is around the corner to the south from the Winter wall.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sun Devil Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sun Devil Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Heat Seeker
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sun Devil
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suntoucher
Sport 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Astro Devil
Sport 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seventh Sun
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sun Devil Crack
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Heat Seeker
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Sun Devil
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport 3 pitches
Suntoucher
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 4 pitches
Astro Devil
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
Seventh Sun
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Sun Devil Wall »

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Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
A 5.10 climber looking to get way up high might consider climbing partial link-ups of these routes, like:
-the first pitch of Sun Devil (5.9) then the 2nd pitch of Seventh Sun (5.10)
-the first pitch of Heat Seeker (5.9), then the next 2 of Suntoucher (5.10, 5.10) May 10, 2015
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
Does anyone know how to contact the FA party for Sun Devil Crack? I would like to clean the crap (read: loose rock) out of it so it is climbable AND fun. Its a beautiful line and deserves repeat ascents. As far as I know, there is no beta for this route, probably because the parties thought it was not worth repeating due to bad gear and loose rock in the chimney system. Perhaps I will add a rap anchor to it as well.

Keep in mind, the FA party probably did not have all the bolted approach pitch options to the Sun-Devil ledge either, so its not necessarily in its pure original form anyhow. Jan 4, 2013
Dennis Jackson notes in RCNM (2006) that Ken Sims did the FA of Sun Devil Crack to the left in the early 1980s. Apr 2, 2008

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