Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sun Devil Wall

Appendicitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Devil S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Heat Seeker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Icarus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seventh Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Suicidal Society S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sun Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sun Devil Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Suntoucher S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Amy Jordan, Aaron Miller
Page Views: 1,116 total · 14/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Jan 21, 2012
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A fantastic route up the clean face just left of Astro Devil. Named after the Greek mythological character who was warned by his father not to fly too close to the sun or his wings of wax would melt. This tale applies to the great second pitch, which is the crux of the route.

First pitch is awkward 5.11c where, like classic Cave routes at Diablo, none of the holds are down-pulls. 3rd bolt has fixed chain draw.

Location

This route starts at the same awkward first pitch as Astro Devil, at the right side of the Solar Cave. Climb up ten bolts where the bolt line splits, take the left track up through the fun dihedrals to a good stance. Climb the second pitch from here.

Protection

1st pitch, about 14 bolts. 2nd pitch about 11 bolts. Both anchors bolted with chain and biners.

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Amy thought the crux was more like 11+, I didn't. Jan 21, 2012
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Icarus is the most obvious & straight-up line of the 3 climbs sharing its start. The first pitch is high quality, 105', and a good warm-up for the Solar Cave climbs. You can rappel from the pitch 1 anchors with a single 60m rope, but it might not reach if lowering through the draws. A 70m would work.

I didn't try the 2nd pitch because I thought I might not be able to get down with a single 60m rope, based on the length listed. But it looks shorter than p1 in the photos & bolt count, so please post if you know for sure. It would be nice to not have to trail a 2nd line. [edit: Thanks Aaron & Sky for the info below, sounds like I'll be ok with a 60m, look forward to trying it in cooler temps] Nov 12, 2012
Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
This is a stellar pitch! A 70 m rope is ample but I can't say for sure about a 60 m rope, George. Leaders should be conscientious about loose rock to the left . Apr 27, 2013
Naomi Galinski  
5.11+
I flashed the top pitch yesterday. I don't think any of the moves were 12a, but really fun sustained 11+ climbing. Glad I had Sky's beta. It would've been a hard onsight. May 2, 2013
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
A single 60m reaches. Make sure there is a knot in your rope! The pitch wanders and has a steep bulge so is longer than 100', but lowering must be only 90' direct to anchor.

So, the left traverse-to-avoid-the-crux move is now gone. It was a loose hold and its no more. Sorry folks, you will have to climb the direct 12a move over the roof bulge. May 15, 2013

More About Icarus

Printer-Friendly