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Routes in Sun Devil Wall

Appendicitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Devil S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Heat Seeker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Icarus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seventh Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Suicidal Society S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sun Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sun Devil Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Suntoucher S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Aaron Miller (FFA-Aaron Miller and Josh Smith)
Page Views: 2,104 total, 26/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Feb 21, 2011
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The first pitch starts on the right-most side of the Solar Cave and heads up some awkward and steep rock through multiple tricky moves. At the 5th bolt, it begins to trend up and right to eventually reach the Sun Devil ledge system right below the Astro Devil face that shares space with the first anchor of Sun Devil. From here, one elegant pitch followed by one wild pitch take you to the top-out.

Descend by 3 rappels, the last being a rope stretcher for a 60m, so be careful. You can also easily walk off the back of the beautiful Diablo Mesa straight to the car.

For anyone climbing at, above, or near the 5.11 grade, this route is NOT TO BE MISSED!!!!!

Location

This route parallels Sun Devil to the climbers left on an inset part of the main wall so it does get some wind shelter on cold days, but stays well in the sun for most of it. However, because of its sheltered position, it doesn't get the sun until closer to noon. In the Winter, take the opportunity to get warmed on another route or two before the business kicks in at the first bolt! In the Summer, this route will stay cool in the shade until about noon.

Start at the extreme right side of the Solar Cave but on the same level platform as the other right side routes (ILL, Native Rituals etc.) but 30 feet left of the start of Sun Devil. This route actually shares the first 30 feet of what used to be "Suicidal Society" before I overhauled the rotten rock and moved several bolts accordingly. Look for a fixed draw for the 3rd clip and follow the route as it trends right. From the anchor at Sun Devil ledge, step left and follow the bolt line up the pretty face.

Protection

Bring at least 13 draws. The belays are on pretty good ledges.
John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11d
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
  5.11d
Excellent! I just wanted it to keep going for a 1000ft. Very sustained and interesting climbing with each pitch better than the last. I had looked at this face 15yrs ago and thought it would be a great route. Nice work, keep it coming. Dec 1, 2014
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
On a hot sunny day, be off the wall before noon, maybe 11:30. May 15, 2013
Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
This route is brutal on a hot, sunny day (DUH). Sep 2, 2012
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.11+
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.11+
This is an excellent route, with eclectic and sustained climbing the whole way up! Nice work, Aaron!

The first pitch is a bit awkward but the climbing is actually quite fun and makes you think. The second pitch is crimpy and technical, and the third tackles a series of fun roofs, with cool face climbing in between. I thought the 2nd pitch was the most difficult, but all three pitches involve sustained 5.11 climbing.

The climb stays in the shade in summer until around 12 or 1pm. Jul 4, 2012
Amy Jordan
  5.11+
Amy Jordan  
  5.11+
Now there are two bolt lines branching out on the first pitch - take the righthand one to stay on Astro Devil. It goes up to a huge ledge for the Astro Devil belay, while the left branch goes to a so-so stance for the Icarus belay. Jan 22, 2012
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
I can only speak for the third pitch (haven't been on the lower pitches) but the rock and movement is just fantastic on the last pitch. Well done Mr. Miller. Feb 22, 2011
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
A fantastic mix of climbing, all on great rock representing the best of Diablo Cyn. The first pitch much in the Solar Cave style of tricky movement, the second pitch similar to the style found on Pale Face, and the third pitch is just unique and enjoyable climbing with great position.

-a Feb 22, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Nice Aaron! How does the rock compare to Sun Devil? From the beta photo, it looks like the second pitch may go through some of the white colored rock that is similar in nature to Pale Face over on the Winter Wall....any truth to this? Feb 22, 2011