Type: Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Aaron Miller (FFA-Aaron Miller and Josh Smith)
Page Views: 3,003 total · 26/month
Shared By: A M on Feb 21, 2011
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

The first pitch starts on the right-most side of the Solar Cave and heads up some awkward and steep rock through multiple tricky moves. At the 5th bolt, it begins to trend up and right to eventually reach the Sun Devil ledge system right below the Astro Devil face that shares space with the first anchor of Sun Devil. From here, one elegant pitch followed by one wild pitch take you to the top-out.

Descend by 3 rappels, the last being a rope stretcher for a 60m, so be careful. You can also easily walk off the back of the beautiful Diablo Mesa straight to the car.

For anyone climbing at, above, or near the 5.11 grade, this route is NOT TO BE MISSED!!!!!

Location

This route parallels Sun Devil to the climbers left on an inset part of the main wall so it does get some wind shelter on cold days, but stays well in the sun for most of it. However, because of its sheltered position, it doesn't get the sun until closer to noon. In the Winter, take the opportunity to get warmed on another route or two before the business kicks in at the first bolt! In the Summer, this route will stay cool in the shade until about noon.

Start at the extreme right side of the Solar Cave but on the same level platform as the other right side routes (ILL, Native Rituals etc.) but 30 feet left of the start of Sun Devil. This route actually shares the first 30 feet of what used to be "Suicidal Society" before I overhauled the rotten rock and moved several bolts accordingly. Look for a fixed draw for the 3rd clip and follow the route as it trends right. From the anchor at Sun Devil ledge, step left and follow the bolt line up the pretty face.

Protection

Bring at least 13 draws. The belays are on pretty good ledges.

Photos