Diablo Canyon Rock Climbing
Areas in Diablo Canyon
Cockscomb Crag 6 / 28 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
Early Wall 7 / 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37
Eden Canyon 5 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Grotto (a.k.a. The Notch), The 12 / 54 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 65
Solar Cave 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack) 3 / 34 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37
Styx 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Sun Devil Wall 1 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Winter Wall 7 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
|GPS:||35.805, -106.139 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Anthony Stout on Feb 12, 2006|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionDiablo Canyon is located outside of Santa Fe New Mexico, and offers fine climbing on basalt cliffs up to three hundred feet tall.
With over a hundred sport lines and many good crack lines, Diablo offers a wealth of climbing with easy, quick access from Santa Fe. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.13 and vary in steepness and exposure. Many routes are in the moderate 5.10 arena and, for 5.10-5.12 climbers, this is one of the best sport climbing areas in northern New Mexico. With the greatly increased popularity of Diablo Canyon, by now traffic has cleaned much of the loose rock from many of the more popular climbs, but some remains.
Climbing in Diablo can be found nearly year round, with shade in the summer and sun in the winter.
Approaches to the various crags can range from 5 to 30 minutes.
DANGER: Please wear a helmet while climbing at Diablo, rockfall is a significant risk here. South facing rock appears and is chossy and loose. This is due to the extreme fluctuations in temperatures during the winter, where the rock temperature can swing from over 100 to below 0 F in a 24 hour period. This freeze/thaw cycle is associated with tremendous thermal expansion and contraction, which can make rock that was solid yesterday become airborne today. Tread lightly while leading, belay from a spot out of the line of fire, and (if they have brains worth protecting) WEAR a HELMET.
NOTE: The majority beta text and photos are reprinted here from the website, http://www.losalamos.com/diablo/, by permission of Rick Bradshaw, who was kind enough to allow me to use his material here.
Free, undeveloped camping available in a few BLM developed campsites at the parking area.
Getting There1) Get on the Santa Fe Bypass route (Veterans Memorial Hiway 599) either from I-25 south of Santa Fe or off of Saint Frances Drive NW of Santa Fe.
2) Exit onto Camino La Tierra heading west toward the Rio Grande, setting your odometer to 0 at the turnoff. After 4.7 miles, turn right on Old Buckman Road, which is a reasonably well-maintained dirt road. At 7.7 miles youll pass a large green colored frame (apparently used to be a windmill painted like a daisy) on your left as you follow the main Diablo wash toward the river. At 12.2 miles you should reach the first turn off into the Diablo parking area. The canyon is clearly visible beyond. 2WD vehicles make it there all the time. They get stuck in the sand or mud on their way out at a somewhat less frequency.
Watch out for rattlesnakes basking and tarantulas looking for mates in the middle of the road. This is their home were visiting, please give them the right of way.
Classic Climbing Routes at Diablo Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season