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Routes in Sun Devil Wall

Appendicitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Devil S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Heat Seeker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Icarus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seventh Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Suicidal Society S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sun Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sun Devil Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Suntoucher S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ken Sims
Page Views: 495 total, 8/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Jan 6, 2013
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

An instant classic trad line, the obvious wide crack on the Sun Devil Wall. Very fun stemming, chimneying, face climbing and jamming up 170' of wide corner.

Location

Just left of Sun Devil, just right of Astro Devil. Starts from the Sun Devil Ledge and climbs up 170 feet to belay ledge at top of crag. From the top belay, there is a short scramble to the top of the crag for the view (should be mandatory) via tunneling under the giant chockstone and up the gulley. Optional walk off back to car is easy too.

Protection

Single rack to #6, doubles on the wide stuff. Rap anchors at top and midway up the climb. Single 60m will make it in two raps to Sun Devil Ledge.

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MikeOH
Hartford, CT
 
MikeOH   Hartford, CT
 
Hardly any protection on the first half of the crack other than #5 and #6. Great climb though, highlight of my trip to Diablo. Mar 17, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Some (2?) new bolts protect the wider section on the last pitch. May 10, 2015