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The Shack Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 6,112 ft |
| GPS: | 35.813, -106.144 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 53,107 total · 491/month |
| Shared By: | A Miller on Aug 3, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's (blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) (bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG (nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Description
This crag is located on the back side of Diablo Mesa, the same Mesa with the Solar Cave and Winter Wall, just the northwest aspect. The climbing starts where you see a large detached pinnacle that, between it and the walls, forms a nice little valley to hang out and watch the sports action.
The Shack is best climbed in warm seasons as it gets full shade all morning until about 2pm. In the Summer, you will be hiking out when the sun hits. But it does stay nice and cool all day so it is a pleasant Summer crag. There are currently 20+ routes here with some further potential for a few more quality lines. The presence of a handful of routes in the 5.13 range at this crag is also a nice addition to the Santa Fe sport climbing scene.
*** Some folks like to bring a stick to clip first bolts.
*** Be on the lookout for rattlesnakes coiled on the trail during morning approaches in summer months.
The Shack is best climbed in warm seasons as it gets full shade all morning until about 2pm. In the Summer, you will be hiking out when the sun hits. But it does stay nice and cool all day so it is a pleasant Summer crag. There are currently 20+ routes here with some further potential for a few more quality lines. The presence of a handful of routes in the 5.13 range at this crag is also a nice addition to the Santa Fe sport climbing scene.
*** Some folks like to bring a stick to clip first bolts.
*** Be on the lookout for rattlesnakes coiled on the trail during morning approaches in summer months.
Getting There
The crag is not visible from the road. Drive past the main Diablo parking area and when you are about to pass Diablo Mesa all together, look for a pullout on either right or left side of the road in arroyos. Don't pass the pump station on your left, you've gone too far (park across from the pump station but not in front of it, they will leave you with angry notes of wildly empty threats!)
A trail begins on the other side of the arroyo and heads up a gulley then traverses out to the nose of a prominent ridge detached from the main cliffband.
When parking on the roadside, beware of sandy berms pushed up by the graders, several 2WD trucks have gotten stuck in these berms. Best to have AWD or 4WD or park further up the road where you can pull off without berms . You can also bring a shovel and easily clear a little path for your car to clear the berm. If in a 2WD pickup-truck, BRING A SHOVEL!
navigate to the trailhead: 35.816574, -106.140833
A trail begins on the other side of the arroyo and heads up a gulley then traverses out to the nose of a prominent ridge detached from the main cliffband.
When parking on the roadside, beware of sandy berms pushed up by the graders, several 2WD trucks have gotten stuck in these berms. Best to have AWD or 4WD or park further up the road where you can pull off without berms . You can also bring a shovel and easily clear a little path for your car to clear the berm. If in a 2WD pickup-truck, BRING A SHOVEL!
navigate to the trailhead: 35.816574, -106.140833
Classic Climbing Routes at The Shack
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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