Elevation: 6,112 ft
GPS: 35.813, -106.144 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,546 total · 425/month
Shared By: A Miller on Aug 3, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Description

This crag is located on the back side of Diablo Mesa, the same Mesa with the Solar Cave and Winter Wall, just the northwest aspect. The climbing starts where you see a large detached pinnacle that, between it and the walls, forms a nice little valley to hang out and watch the sports action.

The Shack is best climbed in warm seasons as it gets full shade all morning until about 2pm. In the Summer, you will be hiking out when the sun hits. But it does stay nice and cool all day so it is a pleasant Summer crag. There are currently 20+ routes here with some further potential for a few more quality lines. The presence of a handful of routes in the 5.13 range at this crag is also a nice addition to the Santa Fe sport climbing scene.

*** Some folks like to bring a stick to clip first bolts.
*** Be on the lookout for rattlesnakes coiled on the trail during morning approaches in summer months.

Getting There

The crag is not visible from the road. Drive past the main Diablo parking area and when you are about to pass Diablo Mesa all together, look for a pullout on either right or left side of the road in arroyos. Don't pass the pump station on your left, you've gone too far (park across from the pump station but not in front of it, they will leave you with angry notes of wildly empty threats!)

A trail begins on the other side of the arroyo and heads up a gulley then traverses out to the nose of a prominent ridge detached from the main cliffband.

When parking on the roadside, beware of sandy berms pushed up by the graders, several 2WD trucks have gotten stuck in these berms. Best to have AWD or 4WD or park further up the road where you can pull off without berms . You can also bring a shovel and easily clear a little path for your car to clear the berm. If in a 2WD pickup-truck, BRING A SHOVEL!

 navigate to the trailhead:  35.816574, -106.140833

40 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Shack

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
City Girl
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 26
Frogger
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
DogGone It
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
A Thousand Yards of Drift (just…
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Endurance
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
32 Flavors
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 22
Standing on the Edge of Extinction
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Tupper-Where
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Crispy the Renegade
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 23
Live to Pull
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Block of Life
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 20
40-Love
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 10
Urban Legend
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 11
Ring Around The Rosie
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 7
Tempest
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
City Girl Main Wall
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Frogger Main Wall
 26
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
DogGone It Dog House
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
A Thousand Yards of Drift… Main Wall
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Endurance Main Wall
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
32 Flavors Main Wall
 19
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Standing on the Edge of Ext… Main Wall
 22
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Tupper-Where Main Wall
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Crispy the Renegade Main Wall
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Live to Pull Main Wall
 23
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Block of Life Main Wall
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
40-Love Main Wall
 20
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Urban Legend Main Wall
 10
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Ring Around The Rosie Main Wall
 11
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Tempest Main Wall
 7
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Shack »

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