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Styx Rock Climbing
Climbing Area Map
This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Styx
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Cold Day in Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Elysian Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lethe (aka Baby Boomers) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Minion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Path of Charon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Phlegethon's Ripple T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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| GPS: | 35.805, -106.139 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 3,413 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Oct 1, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
Description
A warm, south-facing basalt area just beyond the Solar Cave area that offers enjoyable, easier traditional routes up nice crack, columns and small dihedrals. The features resemble those of Devils Tower, Wyoming but on a *much* smaller and less steep scale.
All climbs here have two-bolt anchors.
Multiple lines exist on this face so get creative and have fun as the climbing never gets too hard.
All climbs here have two-bolt anchors.
Multiple lines exist on this face so get creative and have fun as the climbing never gets too hard.
Getting There
Park at the main Diablo Canyon parking area. Hike down the sandy wash towards the Rio Grande passing the Winter Wall and Solar Cave areas and look for anchor bolts on the right wall five feet off the ground. These low anchor bolts are used for cave rescues and are located between climbs Elysian Fields and Phlegethon's Ripple.
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5 Comments
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Guidebooks (4)
Bozeman, MT
The Dungeon, NM
Denny Newell and friends did some (probable) FAs in this area in the early '90s, but he forgot which lines, exactly.. [edit- Kiser, Wezwick, and Kessler also did these climbs early on. I didn't intend to start an argument about who did what first.. I don't know, it doesn't matter much anyway and there's no clear way to resolve it.]
The names for most of these routes came much later than their FAs, with the guidebook being published. Jan 7, 2008
Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Albuquerque, NM
I also believe this is one of the best places at Diablo to bring beginners for some top roping. If you think it's worth dragging some gear down here, your top roping friends will have a blast.
For what it's worth I have never placed a cam larger than a #1 C4 here, so you don't need to bring a big rack. In fact a double set of cams from very small (purple TCU) to #1 C4 will suffice. You don't need to bring nuts (unless you want to of course). Likewise if you are more adept and motivated than I, you could probably get away with a rack of small to large nuts instead.
Due to potential (but somewhat rare) loose rock I always bring a helmet for kids, or adults who want it.
As George hinted at above, this area is best in spring and fall. Apr 28, 2009