PRINT: Rock Climbing in Styx, Santa Fe Area

Styx

New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon

Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo Details

The BLM Taos Field Office implemented a Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for routes within its management area. The Diablo walls included in this plan are The Shack, Winter Wall, Sun Devil Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx. The final document can be found online: shorturl.at/FYn4f

Description

A warm, south-facing basalt area just beyond the Solar Cave area that offers enjoyable, easier traditional routes up nice crack, columns and small dihedrals. The features resemble those of Devils Tower, Wyoming but on a *much* smaller and less steep scale.

All climbs here have two-bolt anchors.

Multiple lines exist on this face so get creative and have fun as the climbing never gets too hard.

Getting There

Park at the main Diablo Canyon parking area. Hike down the sandy wash towards the Rio Grande passing the Winter Wall and Solar Cave areas and look for anchor bolts on the right wall five feet off the ground. These low anchor bolts are used for cave rescues and are located between climbs Elysian Fields and Phlegethon's Ripple.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 12 ● Cold Day in Hell Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 23 ● Minion Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 18 ● Path of Charon Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 21 ● Lethe (aka Baby Boomers) Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 31 ● Elysian Fields Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 30 ● Phlegethon's Ripple Trad

● Cold Day in Hell

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad

● Minion

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad

● Path of Charon

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad

● Lethe (aka Baby Boomers)

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad

● Elysian Fields

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad

● Phlegethon's Ripple

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route topo photo of the Styx area of Diablo Canyon by Jason Halladay.

Gear Placement Session

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT

This is a good place for a beginning trad leader. Very accessible and good protection for most of the climbs. As usual for Diablo, watch for loose rock. Jan 5, 2008

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM

(Much like hell...) Styx bakes in the sun in the summer; but is shaded in the winter as the sun is too low in the sky and blocked by cliffs.

Denny Newell told me he and friends did some lines in this area in the early '90s, but he forgot which lines, exactly and I guess they didn't put any anchors in so I don't know if they were the same or not. [see below comment]. Jan 7, 2008

Tom Johnson
Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe

Great little wall for some easy trad. Remember a rope bag or ground cloth; super sandy at the base. Jul 21, 2008

Karl R. Kiser

Newell et. al. placed none of the anchors in the area. Beverly named four of the routes with the guidebook because they needed a name. Mar 6, 2009

Robin
Albuquerque, NM

I agree this is a good venue for a new trad leader. Most of the protection is extremely straightforward, especially if you have cams.

I also believe this is one of the best places at Diablo to bring beginners for some top roping. If you think it's worth dragging some gear down here, your top roping friends will have a blast.

For what it's worth I have never placed a cam larger than a #1 C4 here, so you don't need to bring a big rack. In fact a double set of cams from very small (purple TCU) to #1 C4 will suffice. You don't need to bring nuts (unless you want to of course). Likewise if you are more adept and motivated than I, you could probably get away with a rack of small to large nuts instead.

Due to potential (but somewhat rare) loose rock I always bring a helmet for kids, or adults who want it.

As George hinted at above, this area is best in spring and fall. Apr 28, 2009