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Areas in Santa Fe Area

Apache Canyon (a.k.a. Grasshopper Canyon) Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Cactus Heaven 0 / 0 / 0 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Cameltrack Canyon 2 / 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Devil's Throne 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Diablo Canyon 47 / 214 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 260
La Mesilla Bouldering Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Pecos River Canyon 18 / 31 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 48
Truchas Peaks 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Elevation: 6,980 ft
GPS: 35.674, -105.949 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 174,590 total, 1,576/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Nov 7, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Intro

Santa Fe, a major tourist destination, the oldest capital city in the US, offers a wealth of cultural and outdoor experiences, and a wide variety of year-round climbing.

The nearest areas are:
Other areas with 1 hour include:
  • El Rito - cobble-y sport and easy 2-pitch trad
  • Taos - various types, sport & trad
Seek out the sunny cliffs of areas like Diablo and Cochiti in the colder months; in the summer, head to the shaded valley of the Pecos or the shady cliffs at Diablo and Eagle Canyon.

Camping The areas near most of the crags (Diablo, Cochiti) provide low-key opportunities for dirtbagging on public land. Be aware that the Pecos River Canyon has seen a lot of impact from camping. Lodging at various levels of luxury can be had in Santa Fe.

Climbing Gym The Santa Fe Climbing Center (SFCC) offers indoor climbing for the evenings and the cold,snowy days in the winter. The SFCC has a very friendly and knowledgeable staff and also offers outdoor guiding at local areas.

Gear The Santa Fe Climbing Center offers an ever-expanding selection of climbing gear including Black Diamond, Petzl and La Sportiva. The Santa Fe REI also has a decent selection of climbing gear.

Santa Fe Crags, bouldering, and alpine

- Truchas Peaks: The Truchas Peaks area of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in Northern New Mexico offers a high abundance of quality, secluded hiking and mountain adventure.

- Diablo Canyon: Single to multi-pitch, sport and trad, less than vertical to overhanging. A nice variety of climbing on excellent to poor quality basalt.

- Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding Crags: Think vertical pockets and monos. Technical climbing away from the crowds on a former destination sport climbing area.

- Pecos River Canyon: Picturesque granite crag northeast of Santa Fe, NM.

- Apache Canyon (a.k.a. Grasshopper Canyon) Bouldering: A large overhanging chunk of sandstone with at least 20 different variations. Just 20 minutes outside of Santa Fe.

Getting There

Head north of Albuquerque on I-25, you can't miss Santa Fe, the Capital of New Mexico!

343 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Santa Fe Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hellboy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Post Moderate
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Humbolt
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Naked Lunch
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Class Act
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waiting to Procrastinate
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Good
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evil Paradise
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Affirmative Action
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Top Gun
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sun Devil
Sport 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pale Face
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Aerostar
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clovis Hunter
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hellboy Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Post Moderate Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Humbolt Diablo Canyon > Early Wall > Left End 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Naked Lunch Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Class Act Diablo Canyon > Grotto (a.k.a. Th… > Grotto Right (W Side) 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Waiting to Procrastinate Diablo Canyon > Grotto (a.k.a. Th… > Grotto Left (E Side) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Good Diablo Canyon > Grotto (a.k.a. Th… > Grotto Left (E Side) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Grape Ape Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Evil Paradise Diablo Canyon > Grotto (a.k.a. Th… > Grotto Left (E Side) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Affirmative Action Diablo Canyon > Grotto (a.k.a. Th… > Grotto Left (E Side) 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Top Gun Diablo Canyon > Early Wall > Runway (Lower Tier) 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sun Devil Diablo Canyon > Sun Devil Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport 3 pitches
Pale Face Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Aerostar Diablo Canyon > Early Wall > Runway (Lower Tier) 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Clovis Hunter Diablo Canyon > Solar Cave 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Hi Meg, if you plan to stick close to Santa Fe for the weekend, Diablo is your best bet and, in particular, the shaded walls of Runway (Lower Tier) and chasing shade in The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notch).
The Main Wall of The Shack is shaded in the morning until about 1pm and while it doesn't have many great easier routes, it's got a number of fun 5.11s.

The free BLM camping at Diablo is likely to be pretty toasty. It's pretty exposed and low elevation. You could look to camp at one of the campgrounds along Hyde Park road just outside of Santa Fe.

I've not ever climbed in the Pecos River Canyon but it could be an option for climbing and camping if you're game for driving a bit from Santa Fe.

About an hour north of Santa Fe is the El Rito area which has nice dispersed and pay-for camping options. In particular, the Little River Wall has both climbing and camping near the El Rito River. Jun 10, 2016
meghan c.
el paso, tx
meghan c.   el paso, tx
We're heading up to Santa Fe this weekend to check it out and escape triple digit temps in El Paso. We're looking for nice shady climbing in the 5.8-5.11 range (sport or trad) with old dog-friendly short approaches. Is diablo the best bet? How hot is the camping there in the summer? We'd love to find some shady camping options near water ... any suggestions?

Thanks,
Meg Jun 10, 2016

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