All Locations > New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon

Winter Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Winter Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Bosch Hogg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Highly Caffeinated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sunn o))) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Xibalba S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	5,921 ft	1,805 m
GPS:	35.80564, -106.14022 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Anthony Stout on Feb 13, 2006
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

Long, sunny, moderate sport routes are the primary attraction for the Winter Wall. This wall contains some of the longest sport routes in New Mexico and makes for a great winter destination.

However, be careful on many of the routes on this wall. Despite some absolute gems, many of the routes look and can be a little chossy. Climbers, and especially belayers, should always wear a helmet at this wall. That said, there are some classic lines here and it's a very popular sport climbing destination in northern NM.

The routes Post Moderate (5.9) and Grape Ape (5.10c) are two, not-to-be missed classics of the wall.

Getting There

See the Diablo Canyon overview photo. The Winter Wall is impossible to miss as it is the tall, south-facing wall directly in front as you as you enter the parking area!

Descent

The Winter Wall is unique for its rope-stretching sport routes. Many routes are over 100' long and therefore require 70 or 80 meter ropes, two 60m ropes or mid-way rap anchors on a single rope for descent.
Often times, newer climbers aren't well-versed in different methodologies for efficient and safe climbing/lowering using two ropes. George's comment below includes some great suggestions for descending Winter Wall routes.

As with all descent options, double or triple check your knot and rope configuration before lowering or rappelling!

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Winter Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 54 ● Bosch Hogg Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 101 ● Original Face Route Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 157 ● Hellboy Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 278 ● Post Moderate Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 52 ● Roid Boys Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 85 ● Protein Supplement Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 125 ● Naked Lunch Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 73 ● Sunbaked Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 172 ● Grape Ape Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 39 ● Gopher Broke Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 66 ● SOL Man (aka Not In the End) Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 45 ● Xibalba Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 77 ● Blind Faith Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 108 ● Pale Face Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 14 ● Sunn o))) Sport