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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser
Page Views: 1,013 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Jul 15, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This isn't really a finalized route description. I tried to follow the line named "The Trough," which is route #17a in Beverly (2006:219-220), but I failed. This current route description is more of a mini-trip report, warning where not to go when you try this route. When I figure out the correct line, I'll update this page. Anyone have any beta?

Beverly notes that The Trough is an 'easy crack in cornersystem with bushes' that has a 2-bolt anchor. His topo indicates that the anchors lay at about the same elevation as those of Sunbaked and Protein Supplement to the right.

Although I couldn't see an anchor from the ground or from the top of Sunbaked, I set off up Beverly's illustrated line for The Trough. After pulling through two fairly fun little roofs, the dihedral got rapidly dirtier and looser, although it stays at 5.7. By the time I was above the level of where the anchor was supposedly indicated, the crack system degenerated badly. For example, just below a beautiful 2-foot-diameter dish on the left face of the dihedral, a microwave-oven-sized shattered block is poised to fall out at the drop of a pin; this block will certainly take out your belayer if it goes.
Most importantly, I found no bolted anchors anywhere in this vicinity or to the right. Although it appears to stay at about 5.7 above that point, and you might be able to top out and walk off, it'd be a loose nightmare. I chose instead to downclimb the whole 'route'.

In retrospect, I may have gone right after the first roof when I was supposed to go left (see the beta photo for the possible left option), but I still didn't see any anchor bolts in that area. However, there is a mystery bolt line way up high, between, and well above the tops of, The Trough and Vitaman (see the beta photo); anyone know what that is/was?

Location

The start apparently proceeds up a crack and dihedral on the left side of the nice face containing Sunbaked and Protein Supplement.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Still can't confirm whether there are anchor bolts up there or not.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Chris Wenker wrote:However, there is a mystery bolt line way up high, between, and well above the tops of, The Trough and Vitaman (see the beta photo); anyone know what that is/was?
Chris, after talking with Sharon and Greg today, those bolts you saw are for the line they call Old Sling Straightened. It's really quite good with mostly cruiser terrain with two bolts protecting the final, crux moves at the top. Dec 8, 2008
Tom Wezwick and I put up this route so that Protein Supplement and Sunbaked could be put in. The climb indeed goes up the "trough" but cuts right and goes to a separate anchor slightly uphill from the mentioned climbs. There is loose rock on the route but in no way does the route go anywhere close to the death blocks. Mar 6, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.6
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.6
Yeah, Chris, you wanted to traverse right from your high-point (at least, that's how I went).

Basically you want to be climbing the crack system immediately left of Protein Supplement to stay on this route. Yes, it's bushy, and sometimes the rock is suspect. There is indeed a 2-bolt anchor, with tat attached to rings; it is on the left end of the grassy ledge above the Protein Supplement anchor, and wasn't visible until I was right at it. It would probably be smart to replace the webbing before trusting it. I suspect a single 60m rope will suffice for the rappels; however I scrambled off 3rd class ledges to the right, so I don't know for sure.

Oh yeah- this is the bushiest climb I've done in New Mexico, and I'd bomb it; the only nice thing to say is that it may be worthwhile for someone looking for a 5.6/5.7 at Diablo, as there aren't many of these grades here. Nov 28, 2009

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