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Routes in Winter Wall
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Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bosch Hogg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Highly Caffeinated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Face Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser |
| Page Views: | 1,847 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Wenker on Jul 15, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
This isn't really a finalized route description. I tried to follow the line named "The Trough," which is route #17a in Beverly (2006:219-220), but I failed. This current route description is more of a mini-trip report, warning where not to go when you try this route. When I figure out the correct line, I'll update this page. Anyone have any beta?
Beverly notes that The Trough is an 'easy crack in cornersystem with bushes' that has a 2-bolt anchor. His topo indicates that the anchors lay at about the same elevation as those of Sunbaked and Protein Supplement to the right.
Although I couldn't see an anchor from the ground or from the top of Sunbaked, I set off up Beverly's illustrated line for The Trough. After pulling through two fairly fun little roofs, the dihedral got rapidly dirtier and looser, although it stays at 5.7. By the time I was above the level of where the anchor was supposedly indicated, the crack system degenerated badly. For example, just below a beautiful 2-foot-diameter dish on the left face of the dihedral, a microwave-oven-sized shattered block is poised to fall out at the drop of a pin; this block will certainly take out your belayer if it goes.
Most importantly, I found no bolted anchors anywhere in this vicinity or to the right. Although it appears to stay at about 5.7 above that point, and you might be able to top out and walk off, it'd be a loose nightmare. I chose instead to downclimb the whole 'route'.
In retrospect, I may have gone right after the first roof when I was supposed to go left (see the beta photo for the possible left option), but I still didn't see any anchor bolts in that area. However, there is a mystery bolt line way up high, between, and well above the tops of, The Trough and Vitaman (see the beta photo); anyone know what that is/was?
Beverly notes that The Trough is an 'easy crack in cornersystem with bushes' that has a 2-bolt anchor. His topo indicates that the anchors lay at about the same elevation as those of Sunbaked and Protein Supplement to the right.
Although I couldn't see an anchor from the ground or from the top of Sunbaked, I set off up Beverly's illustrated line for The Trough. After pulling through two fairly fun little roofs, the dihedral got rapidly dirtier and looser, although it stays at 5.7. By the time I was above the level of where the anchor was supposedly indicated, the crack system degenerated badly. For example, just below a beautiful 2-foot-diameter dish on the left face of the dihedral, a microwave-oven-sized shattered block is poised to fall out at the drop of a pin; this block will certainly take out your belayer if it goes.
Most importantly, I found no bolted anchors anywhere in this vicinity or to the right. Although it appears to stay at about 5.7 above that point, and you might be able to top out and walk off, it'd be a loose nightmare. I chose instead to downclimb the whole 'route'.
In retrospect, I may have gone right after the first roof when I was supposed to go left (see the beta photo for the possible left option), but I still didn't see any anchor bolts in that area. However, there is a mystery bolt line way up high, between, and well above the tops of, The Trough and Vitaman (see the beta photo); anyone know what that is/was?
Location
The start apparently proceeds up a crack and dihedral on the left side of the nice face containing Sunbaked and Protein Supplement.
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