Type: Sport, 135 ft (41 m)
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Dennis Newell, 11/2000
Page Views: 19,627 total · 89/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Post Moderate is an area classic and the best moderate at Diablo Canyon! Start at the post (circled on detailed area map) and enjoy (~135 feet).

This route is LONG! You'll need 17 quickdraws and a plan for getting off the route from the top.

To find Post Moderate, look for the wooden post at the base of the route towards the left end of Winter Wall.

Protection Suggest change

17 bolts to a chain anchors at a comfy stance with steel mussy hooks. The 9th bolt has a brown-painted cable quick draw on it. See below if you're unfamiliar with how permadraws facilitate the cleaning of steep and/or wandering routes. 

Alternatively, it is quite common for parties to climb Post Moderate to the 9th bolt and make a hard left to the anchors of Highly Caffeinated to avoid hauling a second rope to the top anchor and rappelling on two ropes. A fixed brown cable quickdraw on the 9th bolt serves to both signify when the leader should cut left to the anchors of Highly Caffeinated and to greatly facilitate cleaning the draws as the lowering leader cleans the route. That is, when the lowering leader begins to get lowered she/he should clip their end of the rope into this fixed chain draw. This results in the lowering leader staying in line with the bolt line and eliminates a big swing to the left when the final draw is cleaned up.  This fixed chain draw should not be used as a single-bolt anchor!

Descent Suggest change

The descent can be done in two rappels with a single 60m rope by using the rap anchors on Highly Caffeinated for the second rappel. It may be faster and/or more comfortable to drag a second rope and rappel with two ropes from the top.

Lowering from the top with a single 80m rope will leave the climber roughly ten feet off the ground with some mandatory but very easy downclimbing at the bottom of Highly Caffeinated to get down safely. If someone is planning to follow/toprope in this configuration, remove your draws as you lower to get as much length as possible and clip the climber's strand into the fixed draw. Tie a knot in the end of the rope if doing this.

Alternatively, It is quite common for parties to climb Post Moderate to the 9th bolt and make a hard left to the anchors of Highly Caffeinated to climb just the lower half of Post Moderate on a single 60m rope.  A fixed brown cable quick draw is on the 9th bolt to both signify when the leader should cut left to the anchors of Highly Caffeinated and to greatly facilitate cleaning the draws as the lowering leader cleans the route. That is, when the lowering leader begins to get lowered she/he should clip their end of the rope into this fixed chain draw. This results in the lowering leader staying in line with the bolt line and eliminates a big swing to the left when the final draw is cleaned up. This is common practice on steeper routes or wandering routes to aid the lowering leader in cleaning the draws. This fixed chain draw should not be used a single-bolt anchor!

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