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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 165 ft
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Dennis Newell, 11/2000
Page Views: 10,628 total, 74/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Area Classic, the best moderate at Diablo. Start at the post (circled on detailed area map) and enjoy (~165 feet).

To find this route, look for the trail that goes along the base of the cliff and follow it until you find a wooden post at the base of the cliff, the route follows the bolts directly up from this bolt.

Protection

17 bolts to cold shuts.

The descent can be done in two rappels with one 60m rope by using the rap anchors on Highly Caffienated for the second rappel. Faster and more comfortable to drag a second rope and rappel from the top.

Descent

The descent can be done in two rappels with one 60m rope by using the rap anchors on Highly Caffienated for the second rappel. It's faster and more comfortable to drag a second rope and rappel with two ropes from the top.

Lowering from the top with a single 80m rope will leave the climber roughly 10 feet off the ground with some required downclimbing to get down safely. Tie a knot in the end of the rope if doing this.

Lowering from the top with a single 90m works. :)
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
Re: anchors. I agree they need to be replaced. This past spring I brought hardware to replace them but found the bolts placed in depressions in the rock face and my wrench couldn't get in that angle to get enough torque. Also, I seem to recall one was a spinner but I could be wrong about that. A socket wrench is needed should anyone get out there to fix this up.

Edit 11/7/2017:
I installed new anchors and removed the old ones last weekend. The location of the old anchors made it painfully difficult to belay followers up because the anchors were low and to the right of the natural stance on the ledge. The new anchors are high and directly above the comfortable ledge. Oct 23, 2017
As of October 2017 the anchors are now pushing 50% and both are spinning. I thought they were sketchy and wouldn't suggest belaying off them in the future. I didn't encounter any major choss, but the follower mentioned seeing some loose rock. Oct 21, 2017
Andrew Christian  
  5.9
As of summer 2016, the shuts at the top are worn but will hold. Both are spinning now... Why this is not a bolts/chains/steel carabiner combo - as Hellboy is 10' to the right of it - I cannot tell. Ought to be replaced, especially on such a killer/popular route (I'd chip in).

Also, personally I think the name of this route needs a comma: "Post, Moderate" (a la "White, Discussion")... Jul 19, 2016
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9
Loved this route!!! Really sustained 5.9 with sick moves. We climbed this route on 5.23.15 and I also inspected the anchors at the top.

CHOSS: Careful even though this route is climbed a lot there are still loose rocks.

ANCHORS: While the anchors look relatively new, they are stainless, slightly worn but wasn't concerned about that. The right anchor was solid in the rock, the left anchor was a spinner but I couldn't tighten the bolt. I also seem to remember rock fractures radiating from left bolt??? I was VERY careful on the rap, slow & no bounce. Jun 30, 2015
nealg
 
nealg  
 
Climbed route on 10/18.

  • warning* - anchors are not just sharp. they are more than 50% worn through and very dangerous. One of the bolts is loose and not flush with rock. This anchor needs replacing!

I would not lower or rap from the two bolts again until replaced. Oct 20, 2014
The Shuts at the top are starting to get sharp. Bring a trio of bail carabiners and some shoulder length slings if you plan to do a multi-pitch rap down. Current as of 7 Oct 2014 Oct 7, 2014
Ken Jones
Grants, NM
  5.9
Ken Jones   Grants, NM
  5.9
Climbed the route a few weeks ago. Great long moderate sport route. Camped at the parking lot but had to leave because of a rowdy party that started after midnight. Felt like trouble in the making. We won't be camping there again. Sep 3, 2011
Bezoar
Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
Bezoar   Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
I agree with Dave re: the potential rockfall.

Aesthetically, my favourite local climb, & per Jason's comment: a great warmup.

Because of it's length, this is a great training route to teach passing a knot, belaying from the anchors, managing multiple ropes, etc. prior to taking someone on multi-pitch. Jun 30, 2010
  • *** Be VERY CAREFUL of the big fractured blocks heading for the mid-anchor (just beneath and to the right of the anchor).***
Looks like they're about ready to dislodge, and they're the obvious thing for an inexperienced climber to grab onto. Could easily kill somebody on the ground. Jul 30, 2009
We placed an anchor high directly above the dihedral which starts this climb (you can see it from the approach and right). And we didn't continue because we hadn't cleaned the large block which Post Moderate skirts on the left. This is another instance of groups working on the same piece of rock at about the same time. Apr 2, 2008
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
 
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
 
The FA party also included Scott Beguin and Dennis Newell. Feb 3, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.9
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.9
So glad to have finally climbed Post Moderate, and I have to say, it lives up to it's reputation as one of the best easier climbs around. Having not climbed for 3 months, I found my endurance on this route to be the issue, not the moves. Certainly a must-do! Dec 3, 2007
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9-
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9-
Great climb for the grade. A full rope pitch of sustained 5.8 all the way with plenty of bolts for those that need it. A few 9 moves near top. Oct 8, 2006