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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Rich Strang, J Christie
Page Views: 854 total · 18/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Dec 1, 2014
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The sister route to Pale Face, this one starts with a fun 5.10 dihedral roof. After this continue up the slab and arête on good holds until it gets steep and thin. Do a tricky move and then head to the left side. Climb straight up for a few bolts to an overhang. Move back right here to the crack then continue on a leftward diagonal past thin holds to the anchors.
A 70 meter rope will JUST lower to the ground with rope stretch. If you're a bit short move up the hill to the right a bit (be sure to tie a Knot In the End of your rope!).

Location

10 feet left of the Pale Face start, below an overhanging dihedral and a small steepening arête. It's between Gopher Broke and Pale Face.

Protection

15 bolts to anchors with chains and lowering biners.
70m rope for lowering

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
edited: One of my 70m ropes didn't reach, I had to untie & downclimb from the 1st bolt (not that big of a deal). But my other 70m rope did reach. Be careful. [and it sounds like my short 70m rope isn't really 70m.] Dec 28, 2014
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
Aggreed George, definitely be careful. I have 2 70m ropes and one is a least 10' shorter than the other one. I used the longer rope when doing the route. Don't know if my shorter 70 reaches. Some ropes also shrink a bit over time and rope stretch/elasticity is another variable in the equation. This pitch is a REAL ROPE STRETCHER!! Knot that end and be careful all. Dec 29, 2014
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
We also made it with a 70m rope. My belayer had about 10 feet extra when I got to the ground, with a knot of course. Oct 16, 2015
Lee H
Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Lee H   Albuqueruqe,NM
 
This will be a really fun route after it gets a lot more traffic (make sure at least you're belayer wears a helmet). The moves are a lot more interesting than the moves on grape ape. Oct 16, 2015
Our 70m rope (brand new Sterling 9.8mm) was plenty long enough - about 10 feet to spare.
Outstanding climbing but poor rock quality. Lots of choss to kick off if you're not careful and an alarming percentage of the big chalked up holds have cracks coming down off them that suggest they're ready to go at any time. A few made hollow echos when I knocked on them. I climbed carefully without pulling down on anything harder than necessary and really enjoyed the experience. I'll certainly get back on this route (a great warmup, especially on winter mornings when other walls are too cold), but wouldn't necessarily recommend it to someone inexperienced in choss climbing.
Lee H - I disagree with your impression that this route will clean up with more traffic. It'll likely continue to exfoliate for years to come. Nov 10, 2015
Lee H
Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Lee H   Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Dave, I guess I was being overly optimistic when I posted, since the roof and the crux move up higher were really fun. Your post made me realize how stressed I was between those two points. I ended up quitting like 3 bolts below the anchor because I kicked two or three chunks of rock off on accident, and my belayer forgot his helmet. Dec 6, 2015
Heads Up!!! There is a lot..ALOT of loose rock on this route. At least 1/2 a dozen holds are marked as loose and at least that many are not marked that are clearly suspect. Unless you are familiar with the route and/or the rock at Diablo I would not recommend climbing this route until it has been thoroughly cleaned again. Nov 27, 2016

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