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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Unknown original FA, FRA by Kiser & Wezwick
Page Views: 839 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Jul 15, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This easy crack climb ascends a left-leaning seam that gradually steepens into a blocky left-trending dihedral.

As noted in the comments section of Roid Boys, Karl Kiser and Tom Wezwick climbed this crack (in the 1990s?) and put in an anchor. They knew it was previously climbed because an old sling was found in the crack. Mark Thomas then put up Roid Boys and placed the upper anchor bolts where they could be used by both routes (because the rock at the top of the Old Sling crack was less than good).

A route name and topo are posted online by Bradshaw, although the route appears misplotted on that photo topo (i.e., too far right).

Also described and illustrated by Beverly (2006:219-220) as climb #16 (which incorrectly states that it shares anchors with climb #10 - actually they are shared with climb #15). Jackson (2006:138) identifies this as route #2.2, and names it "5.8 Trad Route." Jackson's narrative description is partly correct, except for the notes on the descent, but most importantly his photo topo is completely wrong and should NOT be used.

Location

Near the right (northerly) end of the Sunshine/Winter Wall, climb the first crack system to the right of Roid Boys. Three main cracks ascend here; I picked the rightmost one because it led more directly into the upper dihedral.

Although this route shares anchors with Roid Boys, it is actually longer than that route because it starts farther right, so a 60m rope will NOT set you back down at the base of this specific route if you choose to lower or rap to clean your gear. And because the route angles so much, lowering or rapping to clean is pretty dicey and could open you to a big swinging pendulum after you pull your lowest piece. Maybe better to have the second climb and clean, and then both climbers descend straight down Roid Boys, which reportedly can be rapped with a single 60m rope (although it too will apparently "come up a couple meters short of the ground").

Protection

Standard trad rack of nuts and cams to about 3 inches. Shares a two-bolt, chained anchor with Roid Boys.

Photos

Nice topo, Chris!

I'd posit that the clearly manifest crux is definitely 5.8, though it is very reassuringly protectable. And yours and the others' comments are correct: a 60m rope won't get one fully down to the ground, even dropping straight down from the anchor chains. Mar 28, 2009
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
I didn't find any 5.8 moves on this route; 5.7 would be more accurate. But I left the description at 5.8 out of deference to the preceding guide books and websites. Jul 15, 2008