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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 162 ft
FA: Some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler
Page Views: 599 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 20, 2010
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

If you've done everything else on the Winter Wall and are looking for some spice and adventure, take a look at this route. ~170 feet of gear protected climbing with three supplemental bolts up rock that doesn't see much traffic should get your attention.

The climbing is actually quite nice with potential to be better with traffic but the protection isn't the greatest requiring a cool head and lots of hold-testing.

Start up about 15 feet left of Pale Face where it looks reasonable to head up towards a roof about 25 feet up. Choose your poison to tackle the roof--the left crack offers good protection but hard moves while the right crack looks to be a bit easier but has virtually no pro. Maybe even stay to the right of the roof altogether as shown in the RC:NM book? We chose the left crack.

Above the roof work your way up and into the right crack getting pro while you can and eventually enjoy a big sigh of relief when you clip the first of three bolts. Above the bolt, enjoy the climbing up the very shallow dihedral on steepening rock placing some gear when you can and clipping two more bolts.

More fun but cautious climbing continues up the shallow corner through some small bushes and dirty rock to a small roof. Beverly's Jemez Rock book shows the line going left past this roof but you don't want to do that unless you like hard and unprotected climbing. Instead, turn the roof to the right being careful not to pull off the very big block that forms the bottom of the roof. Easier climbing above through another small roof takes you to the two-bolt/chains anchor. You won't see the anchor until you're about 20 feet away.

Location

Start about 15 feet left of Pale Face where it looks reasonable to head up. We started a bit left of that on some steep but positive rock directly below the roof 25 feet up.

Protection

I appreciated a double rack of camalots from .4 to #2. Two #3 camalots would not go unused either. A set of small wires and some draws for the three bolts. Two 50m ropes required to rap the route.

Photos

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Thanks for the history and additional details Karl. Chris' lead of that line without the bolts is mas macho. Indeed it is the nature of the Winter Wall that it exfoliates a bit each season and with this route seeing little traffic, folks should expect it to potentially be looser and dirtier than others. I only pulled off one hold and I was kind of expecting it when I started pulling.

The climbing is pretty fun and I'm sure if this route had more bolts it would see more traffic (that is not to say I wish it had more bolts). I liked the adventure. Mar 22, 2010
Karl Kiser
  5.10a PG13
Karl Kiser  
  5.10a PG13
Chris Kessler led the pitch first without the bolts (mas macho). We added the bolts later to make the route more friendly. The climb is closer to 160 feet. Two 50m ropes will reach the ground. We definitely protected where possible and went around the top roof to the right. We cleaned the route well initially but most do not climb the route and care must be taken on low traffic climbs at Diablo. Mar 21, 2010