Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Aaron Miller & Rick Bradshaw
Page Views: 2,480 total · 17/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Mar 17, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Long, fantastic route. Climbs through a fun roof at the beginning to a shallow dihedral with technical stemming and a steep pumpy crux.

Location

10 feet left of Grape Ape.

Protection

14 bolts plus two for the anchor.

Photos

Robin
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11d
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
  5.11d
This route is really fun. I can't wait to get back to send it.... Mar 17, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11d
A 70m rope is just barely long enough to lower/TR this route. Nov 9, 2008
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
Long route and fun climbing but this thing appears to need a little more cleaning! Several X "death chunks" tarnish this route (at least, I think they are bad holds, I didn't feel like testing on the way up, nor did I put the X's on them). It's kind of frustrating when the best hold, right in front of you, has a big X on it!

Fortunately, the bolts are well placed and any fall would be of no consequence. Dec 17, 2008
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11d
Absolutely outstanding route. One of the better 11+'s I have climbed in NM. Superior movement and rock. In particular, the shallow dihedral is stellar. Cheers to Aaron and Rick for the time and effort to put this up.

A couple of things regarding finding the climb and the rock quality that Anthony mentioned. I looked around quite a bit and I could not find the "plaque" that is mentioned by Marc. Nevertheless, the route description above is sufficient to find the climb (though the route is probably only 10 feet to the left of Grape Ape). Also, the rock must have cleaned up a bit since Anthony did this route, because what I encountered was clean and solid (and I am usually quite picky about rock quality). Whatever 'X' block Anthony encountered is gone. Jan 5, 2011
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11+
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11+
Yeah, somebody stole the plaque??? But it is easy to find, the name gives it away too.

It did clean up superbly. Oct 13, 2012
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
We successfully did this climb today with a single 60m rope and absolutely no length to spare. Just reached with rope stretch. Definitely tie off the belayers rope end, maybe your rope isn't as stretchy as mine (down climbing the last 15' feet wouldn't be that challenging, if you had to).

Some people stem to the right wall at the top. That's not necessary, but makes that part a little easier.

The plaque is at the base today. It's the 2nd sport climb left of the post. Jan 24, 2016
Nick Niebuhr
The Road
  5.11c
Nick Niebuhr   The Road
  5.11c
I couldn't seem to find a definite crux, more like sustained mid .11-ish moves for the top 2/3 with some good rest jugs popping up near the top. Whatever the case, great bolt locations and solid rock! Definitely one of the best sport routes I've done. And, I'll echo other people and say that yes you can just make it down with a 70m rope. Nov 6, 2017