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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Aaron Miller & Rick Bradshaw
Page Views: 2,081 total, 16/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Mar 17, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Long, fantastic route. Climbs through a fun roof at the beginning to a shallow dihedral with technical stemming and a steep pumpy crux.

Location

10 feet left of Grape Ape.

Protection

14 bolts plus two for the anchor.

Photos

Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11c
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11c
I couldn't seem to find a definite crux, more like sustained mid .11-ish moves for the top 2/3 with some good rest jugs popping up near the top. Whatever the case, great bolt locations and solid rock! Definitely one of the best sport routes I've done. And, I'll echo other people and say that yes you can just make it down with a 70m rope. Nov 6, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
We successfully did this climb today with a single 60m rope and absolutely no length to spare. Just reached with rope stretch. Definitely tie off the belayers rope end, maybe your rope isn't as stretchy as mine (down climbing the last 15' feet wouldn't be that challenging, if you had to).

Some people stem to the right wall at the top. That's not necessary, but makes that part a little easier.

The plaque is at the base today. It's the 2nd sport climb left of the post. Jan 24, 2016
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Yeah, somebody stole the plaque??? But it is easy to find, the name gives it away too.

It did clean up superbly. Oct 13, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11d
Absolutely outstanding route. One of the better 11+'s I have climbed in NM. Superior movement and rock. In particular, the shallow dihedral is stellar. Cheers to Aaron and Rick for the time and effort to put this up.

A couple of things regarding finding the climb and the rock quality that Anthony mentioned. I looked around quite a bit and I could not find the "plaque" that is mentioned by Marc. Nevertheless, the route description above is sufficient to find the climb (though the route is probably only 10 feet to the left of Grape Ape). Also, the rock must have cleaned up a bit since Anthony did this route, because what I encountered was clean and solid (and I am usually quite picky about rock quality). Whatever 'X' block Anthony encountered is gone. Jan 5, 2011
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
Long route and fun climbing but this thing appears to need a little more cleaning! Several X "death chunks" tarnish this route (at least, I think they are bad holds, I didn't feel like testing on the way up, nor did I put the X's on them). It's kind of frustrating when the best hold, right in front of you, has a big X on it!

Fortunately, the bolts are well placed and any fall would be of no consequence. Dec 17, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11d
A 70m rope is just barely long enough to lower/TR this route. Nov 9, 2008
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11d
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
  5.11d
This route is really fun. I can't wait to get back to send it.... Mar 17, 2008