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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 165 ft
FA: Matthias Graf, Jason Halladay, 10/2008
Page Views: 4,294 total, 39/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Nov 9, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Hell Boy climbs the less steep portion of cliff just right of Post Moderate. I think this climb is one of the better beginner leads in Diablo.

The first half of the route is in character with the first half of Post Moderate, with similar low angle cruising with positive edges. Reach a 2-bolt anchor at 28m just before the wall steepens. 5.7 climbers might be happy to stop here.

Above this anchor is the steep crux, then Hell Boy moves right to a crack just for a short distance (this line is Highway to Hell). If you avoid the crack entirely (contrived), the face just next to it can be climbed on small edges at 5.10+ or something like that. After this crux section, follow the bolts on easier climbing to a higher 2-bolt anchor that is up and left of the anchor for Highway to Hell. You can't see the anchor until you're almost there, but just go straight up from the last bolt and you'll get there.

Location

Hell Boy is the faded red-hangered bolted climb right of the post and the classic 5.9 Post Moderate. Rappel from the 2-bolt anchor with 2 ropes; or, with a single 60m rope: rappel first to the intermediate anchor, then a 2nd rappel to the dirt.

Protection

20 bolts to the 2-bolt anchor at the top. Can be done in 2 pitches with 10-12 draws, but is more fun climbed as one long pitch.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8+
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.8+
Andrew Christian wrote:Also, the first clip after the mid-point anchors is one of the thinnest on the climb over some of the more suspicious rock. Do not attempt to lead the second pitch if you are not considerably stronger than a 5.8 climber or you will seriously risk both a factor-2 fall and showering your partner with choss.
It's definitely not recommended to do this as two pitches, but, rather, one long pitch to the top. Then rap down. This way you don't need to worry about a factor-2 fall or spending miserable time at crappy hanging belays. Nov 4, 2017
Andrew Christian
  5.9 PG13
Andrew Christian  
  5.9 PG13
Lots of questionable rock on this one... The only way to make it 5.8 is to either stay in the crack to the right (which is not clean of loose rock) or to pull on some pretty suspicious stuff on the face. 5.9 at least if you stay on the solid holds.

Also, the first clip after the mid-point anchors is one of the thinnest on the climb over some of the more suspicious rock. Do not attempt to lead the second pitch if you are not considerably stronger than a 5.8 climber or you will seriously risk both a factor-2 fall and showering your partner with choss. Jul 19, 2016
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.9
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.9
Only went to the first anchor but I didn't think it was any easier than Post Moderate. Apr 2, 2012
Mark Mathis
  5.8+
Mark Mathis  
  5.8+
A very nice addition to the wall... Continuous at the grade with some tricky moves along the way makes for some fun climbing. And it's long, too! Thanks for the new accoutrements, Jason! Mar 6, 2009
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
Jason wrote: The other anchors are pretty much straight up about another 30'. You can see them from the top of Naked Lunch. I presume they were used for the original cleaning and establishing of Highway...

Highway to Hell was put up ground up and there is only one set of anchors that we put in at about 130'. We cleaned the route after the anchors were installed. As for most routes on this wall, they will probably always need a bit of cleaning every year with the freeze/thaw occurrences. Jan 8, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8+
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.8+
Today, after replacing the missing hangers from bolts 2, 3 and 4 (WTF is that all about?), we added Fixe rap anchors at 28m and then added four more bolts on the face out left from the Highway to Hell anchors to existing chain anchors on a nice ledge about 40 feet higher. The route now comes in at about 165' total with 20 bolts.
Also, we did some good cleaning to remove potentially dubious rock. Of course, it never hurts my feelings if others want to contribute to cleaning it, too, as they climb it.
That said, it is a new route on the Winter Wall so climb with caution! Dec 7, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8+
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.8+
Thanks for your comment, Aaron. You make some very good points and I agree with them all. We did do a fair bit of cleaning but indeed it could definitely use some more. I do try to bolt a route appropriately for the rating and, in fact, think there's an area down low where it feels a bit run out for the 5.8 leader so I may put another bolt in there.
It would be great to meet up for a cleaning/route maintenance day. A couple of us hope to go this Sunday morning early to do some more work on this and climb. I know weekends are bad for working on routes so we may not get much done but plan to arrive early enough to beat crowds at least for a bit. If we don't get much done I'll be heading back, maybe next Friday. Dec 5, 2008
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Jason-

Thanks for contributing to the great climbing on the Winter Wall. I am psyched to see other people motivated to expand our local climbing.

This route has realy good potential to be a classic but it still needs a lot of cleaning. I would be happy to go out with you any time to work on it. There are even a few things that may have come loose on Naked Lunch that I could tend to. I just dont want anyone to get hurt. I think the potential for accidents on these lines especially -being attractive to the entry level climbers- warrants an extra good cleaning job.

-aaron Nov 24, 2008
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
 
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
 
Chris Wenker wrote:Question: I'd also heard elsewhere there was a second anchor somewhere up higher, similar to Jason's mention of the "anchors that already exist up there about another 30' beyond the Highway to Hell anchors." I couldn't see them. Are those higher anchors the ones that are at the top of Post Moderate? Or are there really two sets of anchors just for Highway to Hell?
I think Karl's comment on the Post Moderate page may answer your question about the high anchor. It sounds like they put the anchor in while they examined a separate line just right of what became Post Moderate, but they decided not to equip it because of a loose block. My guess is they were looking at a line left of what is now Hell Boy but I don't know for sure. Perhaps one of the ABQ crew will climb Hellboy and comment.
[EDIT: The new extension to Hellboy continues to this high anchor you mention.] Nov 19, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8+
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.8+
Chris Wenker wrote:Just did this yesterday; these are my $0.02. As it is currently configured, rapping off the Highway to Hell anchors is pretty awkward, especially when you're trying to clean those top 2-3 draws. So, yeah, it would make sense to add a separate anchor for this line. And, if you guys want to keep the grade pretty moderate (and I'd say that many beginners would appreciate that), it would make sense to put in the anchor a bit lower, like George proposed (maybe at 29.5 meters?). IMO, that would also help to not make "Hell Boy" feel like a "Squeeze Job"....Question: I'd also heard elsewhere there was a second anchor somewhere up higher, similar to Jason's mention of the "anchors that already exist up there about another 30' beyond the Highway to Hell anchors." I couldn't see them. Are those higher anchors the ones that are at the top of Post Moderate? Or are there really two sets of anchors just for Highway to Hell? Thanks.
I appreciate your opinion, Chris. Thanks. Yes, adding some anchors lower down before the steep section would be more natural. Granted, the line is a bit of a squeeze job already but having separate anchors would help it feel less squeezed (and more independent). On a related note, I do believe you can get down with a single 70m off the Highway... anchors.

The other anchors are pretty much straight up about another 30'. You can see them from the top of Naked Lunch. I presume they were used for the original cleaning and establishing of Highway... Nov 17, 2008
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.8
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.8
{Edit} Yeah, definitely go to the uppermost anchor. Some of the best rock is up there, and it's a comfy stance. And the lowest anchor provides a perfect sport line for a beginning leader.

IMO, still, it's too bad that "Hell Boy" feels like a "Squeeze Job".... Maybe if it had just stopped at the bottom anchor. Nov 17, 2008