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Routes in Winter Wall
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Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bosch Hogg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Highly Caffeinated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sunbaked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sunn o))) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Xibalba S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 156 ft (47 m) |
| FA: | Jason Halladay, M Graf - 10/2008 |
| Page Views: | 8,830 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Nov 9, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Hellboy climbs the less steep portion of cliff just right of Post Moderate. I think this climb is one of the better beginner leads in Diablo.
The first half of the route is in character with the first half of Post Moderate, with similar low angle cruising with positive edges. Reach a 2-bolt anchor at 28m just before the wall steepens. 5.7 climbers might be happy to stop here.
Above this anchor is the steep crux, then Hellboy moves right to a crack just for a short distance (this line is Highway to Hell). If you avoid the crack entirely (contrived), the face just next to it can be climbed on small edges at 5.10+ or something like that. After this crux section, follow the bolts on easier climbing to a higher 2-bolt anchor that is up and left of the anchor for Highway to Hell. You can't see the anchor until you're almost there, but just go straight up from the last bolt and you'll get there.
The first half of the route is in character with the first half of Post Moderate, with similar low angle cruising with positive edges. Reach a 2-bolt anchor at 28m just before the wall steepens. 5.7 climbers might be happy to stop here.
Above this anchor is the steep crux, then Hellboy moves right to a crack just for a short distance (this line is Highway to Hell). If you avoid the crack entirely (contrived), the face just next to it can be climbed on small edges at 5.10+ or something like that. After this crux section, follow the bolts on easier climbing to a higher 2-bolt anchor that is up and left of the anchor for Highway to Hell. You can't see the anchor until you're almost there, but just go straight up from the last bolt and you'll get there.
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