Type: Sport, 165 ft (50 m)
FA: Jason Halladay, Matthias Graf - 10/2008
Page Views: 6,414 total · 44/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Nov 9, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

Hellboy climbs the less steep portion of cliff just right of Post Moderate. I think this climb is one of the better beginner leads in Diablo.

The first half of the route is in character with the first half of Post Moderate, with similar low angle cruising with positive edges. Reach a 2-bolt anchor at 28m just before the wall steepens. 5.7 climbers might be happy to stop here.

Above this anchor is the steep crux, then Hellboy moves right to a crack just for a short distance (this line is Highway to Hell). If you avoid the crack entirely (contrived), the face just next to it can be climbed on small edges at 5.10+ or something like that. After this crux section, follow the bolts on easier climbing to a higher 2-bolt anchor that is up and left of the anchor for Highway to Hell. You can't see the anchor until you're almost there, but just go straight up from the last bolt and you'll get there.

Location

Hellboy is the faded red-hangered bolted climb right of the post and the classic 5.9 Post Moderate. Rappel from the 2-bolt anchor with 2 ropes; or, with a single 60m rope: rappel first to the intermediate anchor, then a 2nd rappel to the dirt.

Protection

20 bolts to the 2-bolt anchor at the top. Can be done in 2 pitches with 10-12 draws, but is more fun climbed as one long pitch.

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