Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Wezwick & Karl Kiser - Winter 1999
Page Views: 697 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Dec 2, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This climb has a fun roof which compensates for easy and loose-looking sections below.

Start on the clean slab left of the bushy slab (about 30' right of Roid Boys). Move up the easy slab, turn through a low roof through the middle with a hand traverse from right to left (1st crux). Cruise more low angle crack to the obvious hand crack pulling through the roof. Turn the roof (2nd crux) with great hand jams. From here, head to the anchors, that are just out of sight up another 20' and on the blunt arete to the left.

Location

30' right of Roid Boys, pick out a hand crack splitting through a roof 60' up. Vitaman goes through this. (This climb is not shown on the beta photo)
To descend, rap/lower the route with one 60m rope.

Protection

Nuts & cams to 3", long runners. Micro-size gear (TCUs or RPs) isn't helpful. 2-bolt anchor w/ chains.

Photos

Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Fun route. Great holds at the first route, even better jams at the second combined with easier slabs in between put this route on the easy side of 5.10 IMO. Chains are above and to the left of the second roof, out of sight. Perhaps placing them down a little lower would've helped the rope drag and provide a little more room on the lower/rap. Definitely need a 60m rope.

In D. Jackson's book, Rock Climbing New Mexico, topo shows route #3 and calls it Roid Boys; this is not correct, #3 is Vitaman; Roid Boys is not shown on the topo map. Dec 3, 2007
FA by Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser, winter 1999. This route has its own anchor. Apr 1, 2008