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Routes in Solar Cave

Clovis Hunter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cro-Magnon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Devilution S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Erectus (Open Project) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Evolution S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hominid S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hunter Gatherer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
ILL (Ian and Lance Line) Route, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Intelligent Design S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mastodont S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meanderthal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Native Rituals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Selection S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Neanderthal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Neolithic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quest for Fire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sapien S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solo Man (or Homo Erectus Soloensis) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Survival of the Fittest S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tribal Moves (aka Sacred Stone) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Voyage of the Beagle S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Description

Quote from random climber while working one of the routes in this area: "this is good choss!"

The routes here may look a little crumbly, but the rock is quite solid! Home of the most difficult climbs in Diablo, exciting and overhung routes will push you to the limit!

Getting There

Walk down to the arroyo and head straight as if going through the canyon between the cliffs. Before you enter between the cliff walls you will see a trail off to the right, heading up toward an obvious south facing area with overhanging rock on the north side of the canyon. The area is adjacent to Sun Devil on the same cliff band.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Solar Cave Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Solar Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Voyage of the Beagle
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Intelligent Design
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cro-Magnon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clovis Hunter
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Neolithic
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Evolution
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
The ILL (Ian and Lance Line) Route
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sapien
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tribal Moves (aka Sacred Stone)
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hunter Gatherer
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Native Rituals
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Survival of the Fittest
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Quest for Fire
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mastodont
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Voyage of the Beagle 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Intelligent Design 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Lucy 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cro-Magnon 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Clovis Hunter 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Neolithic 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Evolution 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The ILL (Ian and Lance Line… 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Sapien 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Tribal Moves (aka Sacred St… 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Hunter Gatherer 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Native Rituals 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Survival of the Fittest 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Quest for Fire 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mastodont 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Solar Cave »

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Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
There are now several projects between Mastadont and Survival of the Fittest. I've heard that there is alot of interest in these lines so I wanted to open 1 of them up. If this isn't clear, just send me an email.

From Right to Left
Mastadont

Ed's Project

Now "Hunter Gatherer" Open Project, has one bolt and Anchor. All the good holds fell off the wall, and the sidepull jug will go with some cleaning. The start seemed impossible so I moved further left. Have at it, maybe some super strong climber can figure something out, or traverse in at the 2nd chain draw on Mastadont.

Open Project, currently has two bolts and single bolt + RB anchor.

Quest For Fire

Survival of the Fittest

Updated 3/30/15 Mar 19, 2013
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
The route names for "Native Rituals" and "Tribal Moves" were offered by Lance and or the FA party. I had no part in that.

As far as a connector from ILL to Icarus, I would look at a unique start to the right of ILL, maybe adjacent to the big roof block. Id hate to see ILL get cluttered with ambiguous bolts if we can help it. ILL is a time-tested high quality route as it is. Could also just be a direct start to Suicidal Society.

If you are looking for a new project, the rest of the Cave between Mastodont and Survival of the Fittest has some potential for 13+ or harder lines. Someone other than me should do this; I am not qualified to put up those grades. Dec 10, 2012
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Thanks Lee, After looking yesterday and climbing ILL, there is a line that shares the first 3 bolts of ILL, then branches right. The bolt line is missing a hanger on one stud and has one chopped bolt higher. Then it looks like it joins Suicidal Society / Icarus. Holds looked generally solid and had some faint chalk, with 2 new bolts (Stud may be too mangled to get a nut on) could be a decent challenging route. Dec 9, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
DTP, I think what happened is that the book went to the published at about the same time as those two routes over there were being bolted, ILL and Sacred Stone/Tribal Moves (though neither of these names are what was given by the FA as far as I know. ILL is what I called the route on the right because of who put it up and I think Arron started calling the other one Sacred Stone or Tribal Moves or whatever, Lance bolted it and gave it to me after he found out that others were trying to steal the FA without asking).

Anyway, I think is was just sort of a way to say that there was something hard over in that area, so yeah it is not a separate route and the one that most closely resembles it is ILL. Dec 9, 2012
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Does anyone know the story behind Decomp 13a? It is listed in Jemez rock as a 4 star route "Steepest and most sustained climbing in Solar Cave. Follow bolts to shared anchor with Suicidal Society". Is this the same route as the ILL line? Did it fall down? Did Jemez rock invent a route? Is it there and I just can't find it? Dec 7, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Anyone know what the furthest right route in the cave is? Is this the first pitch (11c?) of Suicidal Society? The rock seems especially nasty. Apr 6, 2007
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
This cave was named "Solar Cave" due to its passive solar properties with south-facing aspect and good canopy angle which provides sun in the winter and some shade in the summer. In teh winter, climb mid-day, in the summer, climb early or late.

good progressive design to a climbing area. Every area should have this luxury. Jun 28, 2006

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