Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: A. Miller, J. Smith, 2005
Page Views: 1,489 total · 10/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Starts near the center of the crag, climbing over a series of roofs. This route shares the start with another route, Cro-Magnon, which also goes at 5.12a. Move left at the intersection between the two climbs. This climb also has an alternate start to the left of the original, which actually goes up another route, Evolution (see comment below from Aaron Miller, the route developer). The crux is going over the second roof, watch the pinch on the arete! The top has some interesting face climbing and stemming to the anchors, though, a little run-out for my tastes at the top. Good route, however!

Location

The route is in the center between the right and left sides of the Solar Cave crag. Two routes share the same start here.

Protection

Bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11+
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11+
After you pull Lucy's 12a crux, 60 feet off the ground, the 5.11- upper dihedral section is runout 5.7 for about 15 feet. However, the route quickly regains an appropriate density of bolts when the climbing gets harder than 5.7.

"Evolucy"--The start to the left is for a bold route called "Evolution", which is rated 12c overall. However, this start is solid 12b through the bulge and 11+ through the huge roof flake where you can veer right and finish on "Lucy". This will allow one to "opt out" of the spectacular but hard 12c (thin and powerful) face finish of Evolution (very generously bolted).

"Lucilution"--You can also avoid the bouldery start of Evolution by stareting on Lucy through the roof bulge, then heading left to finish on the spectacular and airy blunt arete of Evolution. This is an easy way to get mileage on the crux of Evolution without the hard start.

"Meanderthal"--There is also a third, but less obvious variation to the same start as Lucy and Cro-Magnon. After the first bulge-crux where you cop a stem-rest under the roof, head up right past the next bolt(a CM-bolt) and then traverse hard right(5.9) under the roof. This will get you on the sweet upper 11d face section of Neanderthal ( this variation properly titled "Meanderthal"). Back clean the draw at the stem-rest and use two long runners for the easy traverse.

enjoy Mar 13, 2006
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11d
Most consider "Lucy" a little easier than the right branch (Cro-Magnon), despite the runout. Cro-Magnon doesn't have a scary runout. However, a finger-size cam (#0.3 BD) fits nicely in Lucy's runout section between bolts 9 & 10, if you're spooked by 5.7 that you really don't want to fall on. Still, both variations are a little bit headier than usual for sport climbs, because of their length and because the belayer can't see you on the high vert face.

In recent months, a block broke around bolt 5 making the bulge (while shared with Cro-Magnon) a little harder, though it is not the crux.

12 bolts, not including anchors. Bolt 6 has a chain permadraw. Jan 2, 2016